Cycling Routes of the Saint Lawrence River Valley and Northern Adirondacks

Tom Ortmeyer and John Barron

Cycling Routes of the Saint Lawrence River Valley and Northern Adirondacks

Copyright © 2017 by Tom Ortmeyer and John Barron.

All rights reserved.

Keywords: Bicycle touring, Saint Lawrence River, Adirondack Mountains, New York, Ontario, Quebec

Snow Geese near Ogdensburg

Chapter 1. Introduction

In the far north of New York State, hard against the Canadian border, lies a little-known area often referred to as the North Country. Bordered roughly by Lake Champlain to the east; Lake Ontario to the west; Canada to the north; and the Adirondack Mountains to the south, the region is remarkable for its low population density. Viewing any map that contains population density information–from colored representations to photographs from space that show man-made lighting at night–the North Country leaps out as an island of calm amid an ocean of fast-paced humanity. For those who enjoy cycling on little-travelled, scenic roads, it beckons.

Topographically it is diverse, including nearly flat areas such as the St. Lawrence River Valley and also hilly terrain in many places leading up to the foothills of the Adirondacks. It is an area of water as well, including many scenic lakes as well as five significant rivers. Besides the mighty St. Lawrence, which drains the Great Lakes, there are four north-flowing rivers flowing off the Adirondack plateau. From west to east they are the Oswegatchie, the Grass, the Raquette, and the St. Regis.

Setting out on the Tooley Pond Road Ride (R. Mooers photo)

The cycling routes of the North Country pass through quite diverse scenery. The St. Lawrence River Valley is farm country – relatively flat overall although there are short steep hills in places. The fields provide a sense of openness and airiness that is accentuated by the broad open spaces of the rivers and lakes. To the south the elevation rises several thousand feet onto the Adirondack Plateau. This is known locally as the “Great South Woods” – a region of abundant wildlife and generally enclosed, forested spaces, but with frequent scenic breaks ranging from lakes and streams to mountain vistas.

The routes suggested vary in length and difficulty. Some of the variables besides distance that make for a more difficult trip include surface (rough or smooth and well-paved); width and type of cycling lane available (best is a bike path, second is wide paved shoulders, most difficult is sharing the road with motorized traffic); amount of traffic on the road; and hills. The major highways in northern New York generally have wide, paved shoulders that are good for cycling. Many of the routes include lightly traveled town roads—these are typically paved with no painted lines, and traffic can be as low as a few vehicles per hour. There are two routes that include good quality unpaved sections—the Parishville-Santamount ride, and the Potsdam-Canton ride. There is also the option to leave the highway on ride on the unpaved Richards Landing Dike Trail on the Route 131 ride. These routes can be ridden with standard road tires, but are not advisable for the narrow racing tires.

This book is written for experienced bicyclists who are well versed in traffic law and road safety.

One thing U.S. bikers should know is that a bell or horn is required when bicycling in Canada. The authors have led trips over most of these routes, and efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the route descriptions and mileages. Readers should consult the pertinent road maps in advance of their ride, and have the appropriate gear and equipment to ensure safety and enjoyment.

East branch of the St. Regis River on the Red Tavern Road Ride

The routes are touring in nature; many include points of interest that are well worth some time and enhance the ride in addition to the basic joy of a good bike ride. Such diversions include swimming, eating, sightseeing, and even some shopping. For those looking for long distance rides, New York Bicycle Route 11 follows US Highway 11 from Watertown through Gouverneur, Canton, Potsdam, and Malone to Rouses Point. The Seaway Trail is marked for bicycling, with the eastern portion going from Sackets Harbor to Massena along the St. Lawrence River. The Olympic Trail goes from Sackets Harbor to Keeseville, and follows New York Route 3 through the Northern Adirondacks. These routes are available on maps and on the web, and don’t need further description.

There are a number of small- to medium-sized towns in the region that provide most services including bicycle repairs if required. Bike shops include the Treadmill in Potsdam, Crow’s in Ogdensburg, Total Cyclers and Sports and Bicycle World in Cornwall, and Cranks Bicycle Shoppe in Brockville.

Accommodation options range from camping and motels to quite a number of attractive B and B establishments. The nearest large cities are in Canada–Ottawa is an hour north of Ogdensburg and Montreal is an hour and a half north of Malone. Canada itself has many worthwhile cycling destinations, and we’ve included several samplers from along the St. Lawrence River that provide an excellent view of the “north coast” of New York.

The region is unique culturally as well. It is never very long before a cyclist riding the roads of St. Lawrence County encounters an Amish buggy. The Amish live a simple and independent lifestyle and limit their travels to the distance that can be travelled by horse and buggy. They run seasonal roadside stands where they sell fresh-picked vegetables at reasonable rates and offer craft items including baskets and distinctive furniture for sale.

Although population is sparse the region has a vibrant artistic community. There are five postsecondary institutions in the region: State University of New York at Canton and St. Lawrence University (both in Canton); State University of New York at Potsdam and Clarkson University (both in Potsdam); and Paul Smith’s College in Paul Smiths. SUNY Potsdam’s Crane School of Music, one of the premier schools in the nation, regularly runs public performances at its state-of-the-art concert halls. During the summer months it is often possible to obtain inexpensive accommodations in student residences at the colleges.

There are many active visual artists in the North Country, and they are supported by an organization locally known as TAUNY (pronounced “tawny”) – Traditional Arts in Upstate New York. TAUNY operates a retail store and viewing area in downtown Canton, where a wide variety of handicrafts can be purchased. TAUNY also serves as a kind of regional museum for special showings. Exhibits portraying an aspect of life in the North Country are commissioned and developed, then displayed for several weeks in a studio setting. The Saint Lawrence County Arts Council is located in Potsdam and features local artists. There are a number of interesting shops in the area that feature local products. We mention a few of these in the book, but many are left for riders to discover on their own—either by stopping at an interesting looking place, or finding them on the local community or chamber of commerce websites.

Many of the communities have a range of restaurants, cafes, delis and grocery stores for meals and breaks. There are some rides, particularly in the mountains, where these services are either widely scattered or not available. We do occasionally mention the presence of establishments on some rides, particularly where choices are limited. However, we have seen a number of closures of businesses while preparing this book, so it is best to either carry sufficient supplies for a ride or check on the present status of a business before setting out for a ride.

Cycling is well-adapted to the distances involved in the region, and can provide an enjoyable form of transport for general tourism. Around Massena, for example, there are the Eisenhower Locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway and the visitor’s center of the power dam. A great many types of outdoor recreation enhance the overall experience of coming to the North Country–including hiking, canoeing or kayaking, and swimming.

The best advice about deciding what routes suit you is probably to gain experience with cycling in your own home region so as to know what you’d like in terms of distance, speed, time, and elevation gain. One local consideration in the North Country is wind. Powerful winds can blow down the St. Lawrence River Valley from west to east, and can pick up in the afternoon sun. If this is the case on the day you’re planning to go cycling, you may give consideration to a more sheltered route. We often start out heading west into the wind and accept a tougher transit early in the day. Later we frequently return to our start point quickly on a powerful tail wind, which is very enjoyable. We recommend regular breaks from riding—including walks up the steepest hills that are on some of the routes. It is always a pleasure to arrive at the top of a hill rested and ready to ride.

Organization of the Book

This book is organized into sections organized around 5 different riding areas in Northern New York, southeastern Ontario and southwestern Quebec: Thousand Islands (TI), Potsdam/Canton (PC), Northwestern Adirondacks (NA), Northern Foothills of the High Peaks (FHP), and Massena/Cornwall (MC). Although most rides are in northern New York, several Canadian rides are included, plus one international ride. An overview map of the rides is shown below.

Each area offers multiple days of riding opportunities, many of which can be done directly from a motel, bed and breakfast, or campground that is your base of operations. Each section of the book starts with a description of the base area, followed by detailed ride descriptions. Regional information can be found at the St. Lawrence County Chamber of Commerce website, http://northcountryguide.com/. North Country Now (http://northcountrynow.com/) and North Country Public Radio (http://www.northcountrypublicradio.org/) websites both carry local information and calendars of events. A detailed map of St. Lawrence County is available for free download at http://www.co.st-lawrence.ny.us/Departments/Planning/MapforAllSeasons

In the state of New York, counties are divided into towns and cities. Towns in New York are similar to townships in many other states. Villages are incorporated areas within towns, while hamlets are unincorporated settlements in the towns. Within the riding area, there are many villages and towns with the same name—the Town of Waddington and the Village of Waddington, for example. Although these villages are invariably within the town of the same name, they are nevertheless separate entities. Road names can change at village and town boundaries, and the “Entering x” signs can be confusing if you don’t note whether it is Town of x or Village of x. Road names can change at town or county boundaries, and in some cases there are inconsistencies between some maps and the actual road names. For the numbered roads in New York, we label the US route US 11, the state highways NY, and the county highways CR.

Note that Canada and the U.S. have different cell phone providers. Roaming charges can be significant for talk, text, and internet—charges in the range of hundreds of dollars can easily occur. However, you can pre-arrange for coverage at a more reasonable rate, and typically on a daily basis. If you plan to use your cell phones across the border either way, you should either pre-arrange coverage or avoid roaming. Also, there are some parts of some rides where cell coverage is spotty or non-existent. These tend to be more in the Adirondacks than in the St. Lawrence Valley.

Route Sheets and Maps

Tables with turn-by-turn route descriptions are included for nearly all of the rides. These show the leg distance, location description, direction, GPS data, and cumulative distance. We have made significant effort to present these accurately, but errors in the sheets or in the maps are a possibility. We recommend that riders consult an area map prior to setting out on the trip, and bring a map with them on the ride.

The route difficulty rating are based on 1 (Easy), 2 (Fairly Easy), 3 (Moderate), 4 (Strenuous) and 5 (Very Strenuous). The ratings are based on both distance and cumulative elevation gain, and are primarily our assessment of these rides when we have done them. Approximate scales are given in the table below, to aid in interpreting the levels. Also, we encourage riders to use this book’s Facebook page to comment on the rides and post ride data.

General guidelines for trip difficulty ratings (for no head wind)

The route maps in this book are adapted from OpenStreetMap ©OpenStreetMap contributors. This data is available under the Open Database License. The maps were prepared using Inkscape. Inkscape is Free and Open Source Software licensed under the GPL.

Getting there

The area covered in this book includes the entire length of the St. Lawrence River that forms the border between Canada and the United States. From the west and south, Interstate 81 provides driving access to the area. I-81’s northern terminus is at the Thousand Islands Bridge near Alexandria Bay. Access from the New York City and Albany areas is from the I-87 (the Northway) and crossing through the Adirondacks or through Plattsburgh. From New England, a ferry crossing of Lake Champlain provides a scenic connection to US 11, which brings you into the area through Malone.

In Canada, the King's Highway 401 (MacDonald-Cartier Freeway) provides access to the region. Bridges at the Thousand Islands, Prescott, and Cornwall provide crossing to Northern New York, and the Saint Lawrence Valley. Bicycle routes on both sides of the border are within a few short miles of 401.

For those traveling by public transportation from within the U.S., the most direct access to the area is by bus. Adirondack Trailways offers service to the area from Syracuse and also from Albany. The Albany route includes stops at Malone, Massena, and Potsdam. The Syracuse bus has stops in Canton, Potsdam, and Massena. Information on transporting bicycles on this bus line can be found at http://www.trailways.com/travel/sched-services/bicycles. The Syracuse bus stops at the Syracuse airport for those flying into the region. There is also commuter air service into Watertown, Massena, and Ogdensburg. In Canada, VIA Rail stops in Kingston, Gananoque, Brockville, and Cornwall. Note that bicycle crossings are not allowed on the Ogdensburg-Prescott International Bridge. Bicyclists are welcome on the Cornwall and Thousand Islands International Bridges.

Look for us on Facebook. We encourage our readers to post comments, route information, and photos.

Acknowledgments

The majority of the photos that appear in the book were taken by the authors. We thank Dick Mooers, Jeanna Matthews, Dale Pondysh, and Ann Ortmeyer for allowing their photographs to appear in this book. We also thank those who appear in the photographs.

The authors have led many of these rides on trips of the Adirondack Mountain Club’s Laurentian Chapter. We would like to thank all of those who’ve been on these rides, our enjoyment of these group rides were the inspiration for this book.

We dedicate this effort to the memory of our friend Peter Blood, who joined us on many of the trips described in this book. Peter and his wife Toni Towle have long been active leaders and participants in the Laurentian Chapter and the Adirondack Mountain Club as a whole. Several times they completed the ididaride, a challenging cycling tour that the ADK organizes each year. Peter passed away on February 22, 2017, and will be greatly missed.

Finally, we thank our wives, Ann Ortmeyer and Jean Giblin, for their support and patience during the preparation of this manuscript.

Authors Tom Ortmeyer (L) and John Barron at Higley Flow State Park. (J. Matthews photo)

Chapter 2. The Thousand Islands

The Thousand Islands, which stretch from eastern Lake Ontario near Kingston, through the outlet of the lake and for a considerable distance down the St. Lawrence River, have long been famous as a tourist destination. The islands are an outcropping of the Frontenac Arch, a geological feature which connects the Canadian Shield to the Adirondack Dome. This is ancient precambrian bedrock several billion years old. Besides the Islands, Frontenac Arch outcrops appear in the surrounding river valley as well, where abrupt transitions between this unique geology and the other, more common geology of the area create unique scenic landscapes.

One of the Thousand Islands from the Thousand Islands Parkway

The human history of the Thousand Islands has been shaped by the early conflicts that eventually resulted in this section of river being the boundary between the United States and Canada. One prominent example featured in these tours is Sackets Harbor Battlefield State Park, which commemorates the site's importance in the War of 1812. A second factor of the present day Thousand Islands is its popularity as a summer home for the wealthy on both the United States and Canadian sides of the border. Cabins and year round homes are on many of the islands. Two of the islands host castles, one built by George Boldt on Heart Island near Alexandria Bay, and Singer Castle on Dark Island, built by Frederick Bourne. Both castles were built soon after the year 1900, and both are now open for tours.

The rides given here are mostly in the Thousand Islands region of the St. Lawrence River, with occasional forays into Lake Ontario and the Oswegatchie River. The region also has an abundance of outdoor opportunities in activities other than cycling. The Frontenac Arch has been declared a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, a status that gives a certain level of protection to its ecological values and also helps protect and promote its value as an outdoor destination. The Reserve's website, www.frontenacarchbiosphere.ca, lists many excellent opportunities for paddling and hiking in the area along with more cycling possibilities.

River towns on both sides of the border cater to tourists. Area information can be found at http://www.visit1000islands.com/visitorinfo/#nogo5 This site includes links to local community sites as well.

TI1. Cape Vincent to Alexandria Bay

32.5 moderate miles along the St. Lawrence

This route has quite a nautical feel, and even offers a chance–rare in central North America–to see an open horizon (on Lake Ontario). It is best done as a primarily end-to-end route with a car shuttle. Besides leading to a more manageable total cycling distance, this approach takes advantage of the prevailing winds–usually from the west–to provide a tailwind during the trip.

Begin by parking one vehicle in Alexandria Bay. Parking space is scarce in the village, and many of what look like convenient parking lots may lead to an expensive fine if you use them except as a customer of the establishments that own them. The best option we found is a gravel-surfaced municipal lot at the southwest corner of the intersection of Swan Hollow Road and NY 12, about 0.7 mile east of the main entrance (Church Street) to the village of Alexandria Bay from the 12. Park one vehicle there, transfer occupants and equipment to other vehicles, and drive west on the 12 to Cape Vincent.

The central square in Cape Vincent offers convenient parking and is a good place to start the tour. It is worth exploring the square at the beginning. The Wolfe Island ferry dock is nearby, and there are a number of attractive restaurants and stores.

From the main street of Cape Vincent, cycle southwest, upstream. In less than ten minutes there is an intersection with a sign indicating Tibbetts Point Lighthouse. Continue straight ahead toward the lighthouse. There are attractive houses on the left and the clear waters of the St. Lawrence on the right. Across the river is the shoreline of Wolfe Island, marked by a number of wind turbines. In about fifteen minutes you will arrive at the lighthouse. It features a number of exhibits about its heyday as a navigational aid for ships. There was a brisk breeze whipping up whitecaps on Lake Ontario the day we were there. There is an International Youth Hostel on the premises.

The Tibbetts Point Lighthouse

From Tibbetts Point, retrace your steps toward Cape Vincent. With luck the wind will be behind you now, a boon for the rest of the tour. Continue through Cape Vincent and onwards toward Alexandria Bay. There are distant views of the St. Lawrence and attractive woods and fields along the way. The terrain is rolling with a number of ups and downs. About fifteen miles downstream from Cape Vincent you will reach the village of Clayton, with convenience stores, shops, cafés, and riverfront. The town seems popular with pleasure boaters and when we passed through we saw windsurfers practicing their sport.

Just before reaching the junction with Interstate 81, watch for Seaway Avenue on your left. A quarter mile or so down this road will take you to the Thousand Islands Winery, which offers free samples of their selection of red and white wines and also samples of varied local beers. It’s not practical to take bottles on the rest of the cycling tour, but returning by car for a quantity of these excellent products is tempting.

Another four and a half miles takes you to the main entrance of Alexandria Bay, and a further 0.7 miles to the end point at the parking lot. Alexandria Bay is a major tourist destination, offering boat tours of the Thousand Islands and a huge choice of restaurants. Our choice was to gather up our equipment and drive back to Cape Vincent, where we collected the car we had left at our start point and enjoyed an early supper at Monaghan`s on the main street, which we recommend.

TI2. Thousand Islands Parkway

24 miles, moderate

Short of going out on the water, cycling offers one of the best ways to appreciate the Thousand Islands region. Both the American and Canadian shores have roads appropriate for cycling, and the Canadian shore benefits as well from a long stretch of parkway and a dedicated bicycle path. A long linear route, it lends itself to a one-way trip with a car shuttle.

To take advantage of the prevailing winds, it is best to start cycling at the west end of the Parkway, near Gananoque, Ontario, after first positioning one vehicle at the eastern end near Brockville. If approaching from the east on the MacDonald-Cartier Freeway (Highway 401,) take Exit 685 for the Thousand Islands Parkway. In a few hundred yards you will see the entrance to the bike path on your right. Parking by the side of the road is available there. If approaching from the west, take Exit 687 for Highway 2-Brockville (CR2). At the end of the ramp, turn right toward Brockville; in about two hundred yards turn right on Brockmere Cliff Drive. Brockmere Cliff Drive ends at a T-junction. Turn left and almost immediately you will find yourself at the eastern end of the bike path.

Leave one vehicle parked and consolidate all participants in the remaining vehicle(s). Travel west on the Parkway about two miles to Mallorytown Road. Turn right and follow it to the 401; then take the 401 west toward Kingston. Take Exit 648 (Highway 2 - Gananoque). At the end of the exit ramp turn left. Shortly, and before reaching the 1000 Islands Parkway entrance, there is a car pool parking lot on the right. That is the start point.

From the start point turn right, pass under the Parkway, and turn left to take the Parkway entrance ramp. The road makes quite pleasant cycling with not much traffic. Very soon the bike path appears beside the road, and parallels it the whole length of the Parkway. When we cycled the route, the bike path was in need of repairs, and we used sometimes the path and sometimes the road. Recently a major reconstruction of the bike path has been undertaken, and it is now in very good condition.

Mallorytown Landing

The Parkway leads through mixed forests, with rolling hills. In less than two miles an eye-popping view of the broad St. Lawrence opens to the right. It is worth pausing to savor it. Continuing eastwards, the Parkway crosses over the approaches to the Ivy Lea Bridge, which leads to the start of Interstate 81 on the U.S. shore. Another three miles takes you to the entrance to Rockport, a village best known as the base of tour boat operators plying the Thousand Islands. It is worth the short detour to go down and have a look.

East of Rockport the views of the river become more continuous, and many of the 1000 islands become visible. About an hour’s cycling will bring you to Mallorytown Landing, and the mainland unit of Thousand Islands National Park. Visitors who arrive by car are charged a user fee at the park, but self-propelled visitors including cyclists are welcomed without charge. The Mainland Unit has a visitors’ center and an interesting small museum. During our tour we had lunch here at a gazebo out on a rocky point. We went for a swim off the rocks.

From the National Park it is less than an hour to the end of the Parkway. Use the vehicle at the end to return to the start.

This route can easily be adapted to an out-and-back if you have only one vehicle. If you can spend more than one day in the area and enjoy kayaking there are many good options available: from Gananoque out to and around the Admiralty Islands and from Ivy Lea to a circumnavigation of Hill Island are two routes we have enjoyed. One of our favorite brewpubs, the Stonewater Pub and Irish Eatery in Gananoque, makes a fine stop for supper afterwards.

TI3. Howe Island

A 24 mile island ride with 2 ferry trips

There are a number of places in our region where cycling trips can be designed to incorporate ferry rides. Sometimes loops are available, crossing a river on one ferry and returning on another. A few routes involve islands, including this one, which visits one of the larger of the Thousand Islands. The route begins and ends in Gananoque, which offers a special draw in the form of the Stonewater Pub, one of our favorites.

The Stonewater is located at 490 Stone Street, and it is easy to find parking on the neighboring streets.

The tour begins from the pub, descends the hill, and crosses a bridge. This stretch of Water Street is worth exploring to its end, with a number of parks, river views, and tourist attractions. Retrace your steps and take Main Street left, northwestwards, to King Street (CR. 2). Turn left and follow the highway 2.6 miles to Howe Island Ferry Road (CR 37). Turn left and follow down to the ferry dock. It is a short ride out to Howe Island. The debarkation point on the Island is on a point of land with a sheltered cove on the right (north) side. When we were here we saw swans out on the cove.

Howe Island riders

The transit of the island's main road is straightforward. It is 9.2 miles to reach the western ferry dock. The road is usually in sight of the St. Lawrence, and often passes handsome riverside properties. Sometimes it climbs into significant hills and farm fields. At times there are good views of Wolfe Island to the south. We were unusually fortunate during our tour to have cyclists in our group who were good friends with people in one of the houses, and we were invited to stop for a swim in the river. At 7.3 miles from the arrival ferry the road makes a ninety degree right turn, climbs to the height of land, and then drops in an enjoyable, moderate descent to the western ferry dock. The ferry ride back to the mainland doesn't take very long.

A short steep climb and a few hundred yards of flat road lead to CR 2, where a right turn will set you off in the right direction for a return to Gananoque. First though─and it is not far, only 0.8 mile─we recommend a right turn into Grass Creek Park. We stopped for lunch here, enjoying the grass, the shade, and the picnic tables. We almost went for a second swim here at the excellent beach, but the consensus was we didn't need one. The overwhelming majority of parties that don't have the local connections for a swim out on Howe Island will appreciate one here very much if the day is hot, as happened to us.

The park road leads back to CR 2 and a right turn for the last stretch into "Gan." At the entrance to the village you will pass under an arch proclaiming it "Canadian Gateway to the Thousand Islands." It is a bit of a climb to the arch, and you enter the village with a bit of speed on a downhill. If you're fortunate you may recognize Market Street on the fly: turn right here. You can maintain speed for some distance down it. Then cycle the remainder of it in a leisurely, cool-down fashion, because it ends at a T-junction with Water Street, where a left turn will take you to the end of the tour, the Stonewater Pub, in just a couple of minutes. When we arrived the proprietors welcomed us and saved us the trouble of locking our bicycles by opening a gate and giving us secure storage for our visit. The pub features the products of the local microbewery, Gananoque Brewing Company (our favorite flavor is "Bell Ringer" IPA) as well as a variety of others. The food is well prepared and delicious.

TI4. Cape Vincent to Sackets Harbor

47 miles, moderate (72 miles return)

This route showcases the source of the St. Lawrence River and expansive views of Lake Ontario; pleasant countryside and varied terrain; and plenty of significant history. It is the longest route in this guide, and truth to be told we underestimated it when we first cycled it.

The route begins at the village square in Cape Vincent, near the Wolfe Island ferry dock. Follow the main street westward, upstream, for about five minutes to an intersection with signs for Tibbetts Point Lighthouse straight ahead and Pleasant Valley Road (CR 6) on the left. Leave the lighthouse for another day and follow Pleasant Valley. The road provides a good warm-up of 8.8 miles. There is only one fork to watch for – bear left where the 6 joins CR 57. Before long the 57 ends at a T-junction. Turn right on NY 12E.

NY 12E will take you through the village of Chaumont. A short distance beyond the village, you will reach North Shore Road on the right. Take and follow it west, toward a large peninsula in Lake Ontario. Follow the road around the coastline of the peninsula, admiring the lake views on the right and the houses and cottages on the left. At the point of the peninsula the road becomes South Shore Road, which eventually departs the shoreline and climbs northward to intersect Middle Road. Turn right on Middle Road (CR 59) and follow it northeast.

In one mile you will reach the intersection of Doane Road. Turn right here; you will be continuing on the 59, which also makes this turn. Immediately there is a steep, fast descent into a river valley, followed by a substantial climb. Shortly you reach the outskirts of Dexter. Bear right on Lakeview Drive. Soon Lakeview begins a steep, fast descent, arriving at the corner of Brown Street (NY 180), the main street of Dexter. Turn right. In less than a block there is a park on the left with a gazebo, and that was our choice for a lunch stop. An ice cream outlet a short distance away proved popular.

From Dexter, continue south on the 180, crossing the Black River. 2.3 miles of hilly countryside riding takes you to Military Road. Turn right. You will be taken into the village of Sackets Harbor, which features the beautiful and historic Sackets Harbor Battlefield State Park, which commemorates important events in the War of 1812.

Our original plan was to return on bicycles via a shortened version of our trip out, using Military Road and the 180 to Dexter, then continuing on the 180 to NY 12E and following it back to Cape Vincent. That would be an additional distance of a little over 25 miles, more than we wanted. So we availed ourselves of the support van we were lucky enough to have that day for a fast and effortless return. Before doing so though, we did enough local exploration in Sackets Harbor to bring the total distance of our day’s ride to exactly fifty miles, which some of us felt conferred bragging rights.

Sackets Harbor has a number of good restaurants including the celebrated Tin Pan Galley. Our choice was to pack up and leave and have supper at Captain Jack’s restaurant overlooking the ferry dock in Cape Vincent before leaving for home.

Lookout on Lake Ontario

TI5. St. Lawrence River to Kring Point

A river ride to a premier park

Kring Point State Park is located on a narrow peninsula between Goose Bay and the St. Lawrence River in the Thousand Islands, a short distance downstream from Alexandria Bay. It makes a nice turn around point for a scenic ride along the river. While the ride can be done both ways strictly on NY 12, this route description takes you off the highway at two locations. The first is on Riverledge Road, a quiet road which closely parallels NY 12 for over two miles. The second takes you on quiet town roads from the hamlet of Chippewa Bay to Kring Point Road. This ride can be shortened by starting at the second scenic overlook, or even in Chippewa Bay.

The ride starts on NY 12 at a scenic overlook 6.3 miles west of Morristown. NY 12 has the wide paved shoulders of many state highways in New York. Turn right on leaving the scenic overlook, heading west (upstream). Very soon, turn right on Riverledge Road. This quiet road parallels Rte. 12 and is a nice alternative to the highway. The river here is relatively narrow with only a few islands. As you ride, the river will broaden and you will soon see an island mid-river with a lighthouse on it. This is Crossover Island, so named as it is near the point where the ships cross over from the Canadian channel to the U.S. channel on their upstream travels. Crossover Island Lighthouse is on the National Register of Historic Places, and many consider this landmark to be the start of the Thousand Islands region. It was last active in 1941 and now is privately owned.

The bridge to Morgan Island

Just above Crossover Island, the road curves to the left, and soon there is another scenic overlook. It is worthwhile to ride through the overlook, even if you don’t stop. The river broadens significantly upstream of this overlook, and the number of islands also increases significantly.

Looking directly upstream, Chippewa Bay is ahead and to your left. Oak Island is the large island in Chippewa Bay. Dark Island in the river holds Singer Castle, built in 1904 by Frederick G. Bourne, a former Singer Sewing Machine executive. In between these and a bit closer is Cedar Island. Half of Cedar Island is a state park, reachable only by boat.

Coming out of this scenic overlook, the road curves left and then right down a hill in order to skirt Chippewa Bay. It then passes over Chippewa Creek and continues along the bay, past the small sport fishing communities of Chippewa Bay and Schermerhorn Landing. Turn right on St. Lawrence County Rte. 6 (CR 6) into Chippewa Bay and continue straight to a scenic public boat launch on Chippewa Bay. There is a small general store here as well. On leaving the boat launch, return a short distance to CR 6 and turn right to continue west. Follow CR 6 across NY 12. In 1.6 miles, turn right when CR 6 turns right. You soon cross over into Jefferson County, where the road becomes Jefferson CR 111. 0.7 miles after crossing the county line, turn right on CR 1. In just over a mile, turn right onto an unmarked road, and then continue on this road as it crosses NY 12 and is now marked as Kring Point Road. Kring Point Road winds around past a number of riverfront camps and a small convenience/ice cream store before arriving at the park entrance. Bicyclists will need to stop at the entrance shack, where there generally hasn’t been a charge for bicyclists to enter. Soon after the entrance, a right turn takes you to the parking lot for Morgan Island. There is a short pedestrian bridge over to the island, which is well worth exploring on either the way in or out of the park. It can also be a nice spot for lunch if the time is right. Note that some of the shelters on the island give priority for fishing party shore dinners, prepared by the guides.

Continuing straight from the entrance, you will find water on both sides: Goose Bay is to the left and the St. Lawrence is to the right. You will pass by a number of campsites and camping cabins, and then arrive at the beach and picnic area. It is worthwhile to either bike or walk the final loop beyond the beach, over a narrow causeway and onto Picnic Island. In this area, the bedrock of the Frontenac Arch forms the shoreline, and makes for an interesting rock hop. Just upstream are the scenic Caprice, Shamrock, Norway, and Lone Pine Islands. Kring Point Park is well worth exploring in detail—it is easy to spend an hour or two on a lunch stop here. When finished, head back out Kring Point Road to NY 12. Turn left on NY 12 and continue back to that starting point. Chippewa Bay makes a nice rest stop on the way back, and Riverledge Road again is a good alternative to riding the broad shoulder of NY 12.

TI6. St. Lawrence Golf Course to Jacques Cartier State Park

A relaxing ride with plenty of scenery

This loop makes an enjoyable short ride, perhaps most enjoyable in the in-between seasons. We did it on a sunny, warm day in October with the leaves at their colorful best. The loop starts at the St. Lawrence State Park Golf Course on NY 37, 6.3 miles west of its junction with NY 812 in Ogdensburg. A parking area is available on state land along NY 37, signed as a winter parking area. The golf course club house in nearby.

The route goes inland through quiet back roads and rolling hills, with a mix of forests and fields, arriving just past 13 miles at Jacques Cartier State Park on the St. Lawrence River, just west of Morristown. The park features beach, picnic area, campground and nature trails, and is a good lunch stop if the timing is right. The route then heads downstream along the river to Morristown, where it rejoins the highway. The remaining ride back to the start often enjoys a prevailing tailwind from the west.

The beach/playground/picnic area at Jacques Cartier Park

Bishop Road on the Black Lake Loop

TI7. Black Lake Loop

A 50 mile loop along Black Lake and the St. Lawrence River

This route starts in downtown Ogdensburg at the Dobisky Visitor Center on the St. Lawrence River. It goes southeast to Heuvelton, where it crosses the Oswegatchie River. On leaving Heuvelton, the route follows the back side of Black Lake, through an area that can change quickly from good farmland to wetlands to exposed bedrock. The route then crosses Black Lake on the O'Neil bridges, and follows the western Black Lake shoreline. The route then cuts over to the St. Lawrence River, and the remainder of the route parallels the river, often closely. For us, the primary attraction of this 50 mile loop ride is a long ride over varied terrain with numerous good views. Also, note that the St. Lawrence often has a prevailing westerly tailwind. When present this makes the return to Ogdensburg very pleasant. On days when an easterly wind is present, it would be a good idea to reverse the direction of the ride.

Black Lake from the O'Neil Bridge

There are many spots for breaks along the route. Heuvelton is the first, there are cafés and marts here as well as the Pickens General Store, which features locally made Amish products. There are several Amish farms on the route beyond Heuvelton, several have farm stands in season. There are several businesses at the junction of CR 6 and NY 58 just across Black Lake. On CR 6 to Hammond, there is a scenic state boat launch as well as McClear’s Cottage Colony, where we’ve lunched at the Fish Bone Café. Hammond has marts and diners as well. Along the St. Lawrence River, there is a scenic overlook, the Jacques Cartier State Park (the destination of ride TI6), and the Village of Morristown.

Oswegatchie River Bridge in Heuvelton

TI8. Ogdensburg-Coles Creek-Madrid loop

Two rivers ride

This ride starts at the foot of the Ogdensburg-Prescott International Bridge on the east side of Ogdensburg. It heads down the St. Lawrence River, through Waddington to Coles Creek. It then follows Coles Creek to the Grass River, and then to Madrid and back to Ogdensburg.

Parking is east of Ogdensburg. From NY 37, turn onto the road to the Ogdensburg-Prescott International Bridge (NY 812), and then immediately turn right on Proctor Avenue into the industrial park, then just as quickly left onto Chimney Point Drive. A ways down this road, there is a small parking area on the left. If this is full, there is more parking a half mile farther near a gazebo and walking trail overlooking the river. When coming over the international bridge, pass through the toll gates, then turn left on Proctor Ave. into the industrial park before reaching NY 37.

From the parking area, head back to NY 37. Turn left (east) onto NY 37. NY 37 takes you along the St. Lawrence River, first by the Lisbon Beach and Campground, and then through Waddington (See the Potsdam-Waddington ride description for details of the Town and Village of Waddington.) The first sign of Coles Creek Park is the Brandy Brook boat launch area, a scenic spot where Brandy Brook broadens out as it enters the St. Lawrence. Soon after is the entrance to the Coles Creek State Park, with beach and campground. Following this is the Coles Creek marina. Just past the marina, the route turns right onto Coles Creek Road. This road parallels Coles Creek as it broadens and enters the St. Lawrence—at this point, it is a creek in name only.

The view downstream from Coles Creek Park

Just before crossing the creek, the route turns right onto Irish Settlement Road. At the trickiest part in the ride, it takes the next left on Tiernan Road, and then immediately right on McKnight Road (again before crossing the creek). Look for the osprey nest here. Coles Creek narrows significantly here and then disappears, giving the appearance of a previous route of the Grass to the St. Lawrence. The McKnight Road takes you through the McKnight farm to CR 14. Make the gradual right turn onto CR 14. CR 14 goes along the Grass River to Madrid, where lunch is possible at the Hometown Cafe if you haven’t already stopped to picnic. In Madrid, continue straight as CR 14 becomes NY 345, then straight again at the village's main intersection where it briefly becomes CR 14 again. In a couple of hundred yards continue straight ahead onto CR 31 where the CR 14 turns left. CR 31 passes through Chipman Corners on its way to CR 28; it is about nine hilly miles through farm country and a couple of maple sugar stands. A left turn on CR 28 leads back to NY 37 in a distance of 8.5 miles. Another left turn on NY 37 leads in less than a mile to the entrance to the international bridge and end of route.

Chapter 3. Potsdam/Canton Area

Canton and Potsdam are in St. Lawrence County and are located 10 miles apart on US 11. Both have populations of approximately 10,000 and have good lodging, dining and cultural opportunities.

Potsdam

Potsdam sits on the Raquette River on its transition from the Adirondack Mountains to the St. Lawrence River valley. Potsdam is a college town whose present status has been defined by two early residents Thomas Clarkson and Julia Crane. The Clarkson family first moved to the area in 1818. The family developed significant industry in the town, including the quarrying of Potsdam sandstone, an impressive, durable red sandstone that achieved fame throughout the area. In 1894, Thomas Clarkson died in a quarrying accident. His sisters founded the Thomas S. Clarkson Memorial School of Technology (now Clarkson University) in his memory.

Julia Crane was born and raised in Potsdam. She attended and graduated from the State Normal and Training School in Potsdam in 1874. She taught school for several years, and returned to Potsdam in 1880 to teach music. She eventually founded the Crane Normal Institute of Music, the first institution to provide preparation for music educators, and the precursor of today’s Crane School of Music. Recent Crane School alumni include Renée Fleming, Stephanie Blythe, Lisa Vroman, Margaret Lattimore, and Dmitri Pittas.

Trinity Episcopal Church from Ives Park

The quarrying operation in Potsdam attracted expert stone carvers, and Potsdam has a number of distinctive red sandstone buildings. Several of these have distinctive carvings. Of particular interest are the Presbyterian and Catholic churches, the Sewell Raymond Shop and Charles Cox Building in downtown Potsdam, and the Clarkson buildings Old Main and Woodstock Lodge. Trinity Episcopal Church on Fall Island is a prime example of early sandstone construction. The Gatehouse at the Bayside Cemetery, dating to the year 1900, is a fine example of turn of the 20th century construction. The Village of Potsdam has developed walking tours of the village and of the cemetery. These can be obtained from the Potsdam Public Museum, 2 Park Street, http://www.potsdammuseum.org/.

The downtown Potsdam historic area features The Treadmill bicycle shop. Other downtown shops of interest are the Maple Emporium, Purple Rice and Potsdam Co-op specialty grocery stores, Misty Hollow Arts and Crafts and the North Country Neighbors flea market.

The Clarkson Inn in downtown Potsdam and Hampton Inn on the north side of the village provide lodging. Several motels are available just outside the village limits on NY 56 north of town and US 11 west of town. Several bed and breakfasts are located in or near the village. The village and surrounding area also has numerous restaurants, ranging from diners to fine dining. A list of lodging, eating, and shopping options is available at http://potsdamchamber.com. Nearby state campgrounds are at the Higley Flow State Park in South Colton (17 miles) and the Robert Moses Park in Massena (27 miles).

Daytime parking is available throughout the village, both in municipal parking lots and on several of the main streets. For those planning extended bicycle trips, overnight street parking is not allowed, but there is free overnight parking in marked municipal lots, including a portion of the lot next to the Clarkson Inn at 1 Main Street.

Canton

Canton is the St. Lawrence County Seat. Canton is the home of St. Lawrence University and the State University of New York at Canton. Canton is the birthplace of Frederic Remington and home of builder J. Henry Rushton’s boatworks. Silas Wright, 14th governor of New York, based his law practice in Canton. His former home is now the location of the county historical society and museum.

Canton lodging options include the Best Western University Inn and University Suites Hotel. There are a good number and variety of eating places in downtown Canton and several others on the west side of town. A list of Canton restaurants and attractions can be found at http://www.cantonnewyork.us/chamber/ Canton is located on the Grass River, and the Grass River Heritage Trail and Bend in the River Park are located in the village. Taylor Park and Beach is located in the Town of Canton just outside the village. The offices and shop of the Traditional Arts in Upstate New York (TAUNY) are located in downtown Canton.

The eight rides in the Potsdam/Canton section start in the area, and provide a range of lengths and scenery. All are loop rides and end where they start.

Bridge over Little River at Canton. (D. Pondysh photo)

PC1. Potsdam-Canton Loop

A quiet loop with plenty of time for lunch

This route takes our two favorite routes between Potsdam and Canton, and avoids the most obvious (and busiest) path on US 11. US 11 is a designated bicycle route with wide shoulders, and it can be taken instead of either of these routes if desired. The one way distance is 10.5 miles, so it shortens the ride a bit. Note that the southern route includes two unpaved sections—the last bit of Bagdad Road and Wilkinson Road.

Woodstock Lodge from Clarkson Avenue

The route starts from Sandstoner Park/Pine Street Arena in Potsdam. The park provides plenty of parking, and starting here avoids downtown Potsdam and the Raquette River bridges. It is located on NY 345 (Pine Street) several blocks north of the junction with US 11, just west of the bridge over the Raquette River. This ride can be started in Canton, there is good parking in Canton near the Village Green at the junction of Park Street and US 11. There is plenty to explore in both villages. (See the descriptions at the start of this chapter for some of them.)

From Sandstoner Park, the route goes south and soon crosses US 11 and Maple Street. Continuing straight, the road becomes Clarkson Avenue and passes by the Clarkson University campus. Leaving the village, the route heads west on a series of quiet town roads (with 2 short stretches on County Highways). The route reaches CR 27 just south of the Village of Canton. CR 27 crosses a scenic bridge over the Little River on entering Canton. The campus of St. Lawrence University begins just over the bridge, and there is a footpath along the Little River starting on the west side of the bridge. St. Lawrence’s Brewer Bookstore on the left is a favorite for browsing and tea. Canton’s downtown is at the junction of CR 27 (Park Street) and US 11. Canton features a number of shops as well as places to eat. Traditional Arts in Upstate New York (TAUNY) and the Grass River Heritage Trail are to the left on US 11, and the Silas Wright House Museum is to the right. The Canton Village Green is also at the junction of Park Street and US 11 (Main Street). One suggestion is to get a take-out lunch from one of several restaurants/shops on Main Street and take it to Heritage Park on Coakley Island in the Grass River, on the west side of downtown Canton. The park has several markers describing the mills the lined the river years ago, as well as a short scenic trail.

The return to Potsdam begins in downtown Canton, heading north and then east. It follows Flat Rock Road north in order to enter Potsdam on NY 345 rather than US 11.

Potsdam to Canton

For those starting in Canton, we recommend continuing past Sandstoner Park on entering Potsdam. Turn left on Maple Street immediately after crossing US 11. Cross the bridges over the Raquette River to get to downtown Potsdam. Potsdam has several historical buildings (including three churches) made from Potsdam sandstone, and the architecture and stone carvings on several of these are notable. Potsdam also has shops and restaurants and is worth exploring during an extended lunch hour. Maxfield’s deck overlooking the river is particularly nice. Picnic sites are available at Fall Island Park, accessible from Maple Street, and Ives Park, just upstream from the second bridge.

Canton to Potsdam

PC2. Potsdam-Waddington Loop

A rewarding ride to the St. Lawrence and Grass

The route takes you through rolling hills, past farmland and woodlots to the St. Lawrence River Valley. It crosses the Grass River at Bucks Bridge and moves on to the St. Lawrence in the Town of Waddington. The route continues along the St. Lawrence River past three parks, each of which offers picnic areas with great views of the river. The Village of Waddington features a historic walking tour and several interesting shops and diners. The highlight of the return route is the Ruddy Road along the Grass River below the Village of Madrid.

The start is at Sandstoner Park, 66 Pine Street in Potsdam. Parking is available at the park. To reach the park, drive north on NY 345 from the junction of US 11 and NY 345. Sandstoner Park is a few blocks past the railroad tracks on Pine Street (NY 345). While NY 345 can be taken to get directly from Potsdam to Waddington, the bicycle route largely travels the quiet, scenic back roads of the St. Lawrence River Valley.

Leaving Sandstoner Park, turn right, and soon follow NY 345 left at the Y. As you leave the village, the road widens and gains a reasonable paved shoulder. In just over 2 miles, turn left to West Potsdam. The route is fairly hilly in this stretch.

Passing through West Potsdam, the route becomes flatter as it transitions into the St. Lawrence Lowlands. This is an area of good farmland with occasional wetlands. Four north-flowing rivers drop from the Adirondacks to the St. Lawrence River through these lowlands in St. Lawrence County. Several of these rivers have changed course over the millennia, leaving behind wetlands in the old riverbeds. While Sandstoner Park sits on the banks of the Raquette River, you are now entering the Grass River watershed.

Just after crossing NY 310, the route crosses the Grass River on Bucks Bridge. The original bridge at this site was built by Isaac Buck in 1806, and the settlement of Bucks Bridge soon sprang up. Just over the bridge on your right, a historical marker shows the location of an early Seventh Day Adventist Church and School. Continue straight coming off the bridge—CR 14 comes in from the left, and the road takes on that number. Turn left on Buck Road soon after joining CR 14. There are several attractive native stone farmhouses along this section of the route. Many of the farms in this area have traditional woodlots—a source of wood for heat in the winter, maple sap in the spring, and a place for hunting in the fall. At mile 14.7, Buck Road ends at CR 31. Travel a short distance up the hill on 31 to Chipman Corner, another early St. Lawrence County farming community. Turn here onto CR 33, then soon pass the Scotch Presbyterian Church. A four way stop appears at mile 18.3. Continue straight onto Buck Road. This is another remnant of the old Buck Road that ran from the St. Lawrence River to Bucks Bridge on the Grass River. Other sections have disappeared over the years.

At mile 20.3, Buck Road ends at the St. Lawrence River. The first of several choices happens here. 0.2 miles to the left is Waddington’s Howard Park, which is well worth a visit. The park features a beach, playground, picnic area, scenic overlook and restrooms. There is no charge for entry. This beach is one of the best locations for swimming on this stretch of the St. Lawrence.

Howard Park in Waddington

The Village of Waddington is to the right from this junction, and the ride continues in this direction. River Road turns into St. Lawrence Avenue as you enter the Village of Waddington. You will come to Island View Park in the center of Waddington. The island you are viewing is Ogden Island, and a historic marker at this point provides information about it. Some consider Ogden Island to be the last island of the Thousand Islands group, with this downstream section of river having fewer but larger islands. On the other hand, many consider that the Thousand Islands end somewhat upstream from here. You will also find a marker for a walking tour of Waddington here, with a list of the historic buildings in the village. These include several that housed staff for the Ogden Mansion that was on the island. Prior to the coming of the St. Lawrence Seaway, there were a number of mills and businesses in the now-flooded valley between this location and Ogden Island. These were lost when the Robert Moses Dam in Massena was completed and Lake St. Lawrence was created behind the dam. Waddington includes a number of opportunities for lunching and/or browsing. On Main Street are the Artworks Creperie, which is open for breakfast and lunch, and the Touch of Icing, a coffee shop and bakery. A short biking/walking trail starts in Island View Park and heads downstream to Whittaker Park. It is not unusual to find carp fisherman in Whittaker Park—this sport is relatively new to North America and complements the more traditional walleye, bass and pike fishing of the lowlands and river. On a practical note, Howard, Island View, and Whittaker Parks all include public restrooms that are open for much of the bicycling season.

On leaving Whittaker Park, NY 37 is in sight. One block west on 37 is the IGA grocery/deli/gas station. At this corner, turn left onto Oak Street which becomes Franklin Street then Franklin Road, CR 44. This road will take you to Chamberlain Corner, where you cross the Grass River. Immediately over the bridge, turn right on the Ruddy Road. Ruddy Road is a quiet, scenic road that follows the east shore of the Grass upstream past farmland, camps, and forest. At the end of Ruddy Road, the route follows NY 310 to Madrid and then NY 345 to Potsdam.

Waddington Walking Tour guide in Island View Park

A shorter version of the ride can be taken from Madrid to Waddington. In Madrid, parking is available at the Madrid Municipal Park, just south of the Grass River on NY345. Turn left coming out of the park, cross the Grass River, and turn left onto CR 31 at the top of the hill. Follow CR 31 to mile 14.1 of the original route, just before Chipman Corners. From there, follow the directions given in the table. At the junction of NY 310 and NY 345 near the end of the route, turn right to Madrid rather than left to Potsdam. This shortened route is approximately 25 miles in length.

PC3. Canton to Upper and Lower Lakes Bird Conservation Area

A 20–mile tour between the Grass and Oswegatchie Rivers

This route starts in Canton and circles the Upper and Lower Lakes Bird Conservation Area (BCA) and Indian Creek Nature Center and passes through the village of Rensselaer Falls. The Upper and Lower Lakes are interesting as they connect the Grass and Oswegatchie Rivers at a point where they come close. The rivers then continue their separate ways before reaching the St. Lawrence River some 50 miles apart. The Upper and Lower Lakes Bird Conservation Area has sections that are closed to the public year round, as well as sections that are open part or all of the year. The Indian Creek Nature Center is on the southwest side of the conservation area, and is open year-round, as are the observation tower and parking areas on the Dekalb-Rensselaer Falls Road. In other areas, the seasonal postings need to be followed. See the NYSDEC website (http://www.dec.ny.gov/animals/27009.html) for a map and further details, including information for birders.

Parking is available on US 11 in Canton, on Coakley Island in the Grass River. There is parking on both the north and south sides of US 11 here. On the north side of US 11 is Heritage Park and Trail, which documents the working history of the Grass River in Canton. Follow the 11 northwest, and continue straight on what is now NY 68 where the 11 turns left.

After leaving Canton, NY 68 soon parallels the Grass River, where there are multiple opportunities for scenic stops. At nile 3.2 is a New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC) office. Behind the NYSDEC garages is a short gravel road leading to the northern end of Upper Lake. This road is open seasonally.

The route turns from NY 68 onto CR 14. Near Rensselaer Falls, CR 14 passes the entrance to Indian Creek Nature Center. At the end of the 0.35-mile gravel road to the nature center parking area are walking trails to an observation tower in one direction, and a boardwalk and observation deck in the other. CR 14 next enters Rensselaer Falls, where a left turn is made just before a bridge over the Oswegatchie River.

Birdwatching at the Indian Creek Nature Center Observation Tower

Additional viewing areas for the Upper and Lower Lakes are found on the Dekalb-Rensselaer Falls Road, including the large pond where the road passes over the Lower Lake outlet. The route turns left at Irish Settlement Road and follows the east side of the Conservation Area. On reaching NY 68, turn right to return to Canton.

PC4 Higley Flow Loop

A Day Long Ride into the Hills with Scenic Side Trips

This loop starts in Potsdam (elev. 420 feet), and climbs south into the Adirondacks. (Remember: up is south on this route.) The peak elevation is 1060 feet on the Gulf Road. This route closely follows the Raquette River, with its numerous hydro dams and ponds. While Hannawa Falls and South Colton dams are viewed from the main route, short side trips allow better views and are nice spots for a break. The Colton dam is a short block east of the route, and a short walk down the popular Stone Valley Trail in Colton yields great views of the rapids below the dam. Finally, the Higley Flow dam is 0.5 miles off the Gulf Road on Pine Road.

A trip highlight is Higley Flow State Park, which is at the halfway point of the ride. The park may have a day use fee. A favorite strategy of ours is to pick up a sandwich at one of the convenience stores in Hannawa Falls or Colton and picnic at the park. From the park, you ride on to South Colton, where a short and worthwhile side trip takes you to a park on the bypass reach of the South Colton dam. When returning to Colton, the single-lane unpaved Lenny Road offers a nice variation from NY 56.

The route starts in the Village of Potsdam at the junction of NY 56 and Main Street. The Potsdam Fire Station is at the intersection, and there is municipal parking beside the fire station.

The route generally follows NY 56 south for nearly 10 miles. At mile 4.3, you enter the hamlet of Hannawa Falls. Here you will find the first of several crossings of the Raquette River. A right turn just after the bridge provides a good view of the river just below the Hannawa Falls Power Dam, as well as the southern trailhead for the Red Sandstone hiking trail. The route continues south on NY 56 along the Hannawa pond above the dam.

NY 56 then climbs to the hamlet of Colton. A side trip (highly recommended) is at Main Street, where a left turn will take you to a bridge over the Raquette River in 1 block. This bridge is just upstream from the Colton Power Dam, which sits at the top of the Stone Valley Hiking Trail. The main Stone Valley Trail is a 6-mile loop on both sides of the river. The eastern trailhead is across the river and behind the fire station, and offers excellent views of the first set of Stone Valley rapids right at the trailhead. The Stone Valley rapids are a set of Class 5 whitewater that challenge the most experienced kayakers during the spring runoff and on the several release days scheduled each year.

Also of interest in Colton is the Zion Episcopal Church on Main Street between NY 56 and the Raquette River Bridge. The church is a prime example of the Potsdam sandstone building and stone carving that was prominent in the area in the late 19th century and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Next to the church is the former rectory, which currently serves as the Colton Town Museum.

Leaving Colton on NY 56, the route turns right onto NY 68 at the Kunoco mini-mart. Immediately after the mini-mart, turn left onto Gulf Road. Gulf Road follows the west shore of the Raquette River and passes by the Hide Away, a popular local restaurant.

At mile 11.1 is another possible side trip to Higley Flow Dam. A left turn onto Pine Road will take you to the-aptly named Big Rock Park at Brookfield Power’s Higley Flow Power Dam in 0.5 miles. There is a boat launch here above the dam, and several picnic tables.

The route continues on Gulf Road, and then turns left onto Cold Brook Drive. At mile 14.8, the route passes the entrance to Higley Flow State Park. Higley Flow Park includes campground, nature trails, beach, and nature center. There is a new trail lodge located at the main parking lot just inside the park entrance; it has indoor rest rooms, a microwave oven for heating dishes, and picnic tables. This can be an ideal refuge if you should be caught by a rainshower in this location.

The beach and picnic area are approximately 1.5 miles from the park entrance. This is the halfway point of the ride and a good picnic spot. A swim is definitely possible in season—particularly when you recall that the route back to Potsdam is largely downhill. From the Higley Flow Park entrance, continue east on Cold Brook Drive to the hamlet of South Colton. The route then turns left onto NY 56 where you will soon reach the bridge over the Raquette River. There is a small riverside park down a hill to the right just before the bridge. Or you can cross the river and take a short side trip with a right turn onto Windmill Road and another right onto Mill Street. This will take you upstream to a scenic spot on the waterfall bypassing the dam that is seen from the bridge.

At mile 21.0, NY 56 meets the CR 58 junction.

Lenny Road Option An alternate return route (instead of continuing on the 56) is to turn right on CR 58 and take the Lenny Road, which bears left in 0.7 miles, back to Hannawa Falls. Lenny Road is a quiet, scenic, largely-unpaved single lane road through the forest–it is something of a ride back through an earlier time. Lenny Road is parallel to the Stone Valley section of the Raquette River, and has a significant loss of elevation in this direction. At the end of Lenny Road, continue straight onto the River Road, continue around the curve. It soon turns into Church Street. Follow Church Street until its junction with NY 56 in Hannawa Falls. Turn right to rejoin the main route.

For those returning on the main route, NY 56 north crosses the Raquette River on entering Colton. Colton makes a nice stop for a cold drink. The Colton Mini-Mart at the river is a nice stop before finishing the ride with several exhilarating descents on the final leg of the route.

Raquette River Bridge in South Colton, with South Colton Power House in background

PC5 Parishville-Santamont Road Loop

A forest ride with a hike

View upstream from the Catherine Street parking lot.

This rural loop starts and ends in Parishville. It is a 19-mile loop, ranging between 775 and 1200 feet elevation. The route goes through a lightly-populated part of St. Lawrence County and passes by a series of state and county forests. The latter part of the route follows the west branch of the St. Regis River.

In the hamlet of Parishville, park in the municipal lot at the junction of NY 72 and Catherine Street, just east of the St. Regis River bridge. The river enters a scenic gorge just south of here across NY 72, which is well worth seeing. The route begins following NY 72 east through the Whiskey Flats State Forest, then follows the Beebe, Cutler, and Santamont Roads to the Sylvan Falls Road. Much of the Santamont Road is unpaved, but is well maintained and generally can be ridden with hybrid road tires. The Sylvan Falls Road follows the St. Regis River back to Parishville.

The route includes several options. First, the hamlet of Hopkinton lies at the end of NY 72, 0.3 miles beyond the turn onto Beebe Road. Lamphere’s Convenience Store lies at the junction of NY 72 and NY 11B. Also in Hopkinton, a couple of hundred yards east (right) on NY 11B, is a popular fruit and vegetable stand which offers seasonal fresh produce, flowers, and other items. Second, on Sylvan Falls Road (at mile 14.1 of the ride) is the Jones Road. The Jones Road bridge is in sight from the Sylvan Falls Road, and offers good views both upstream and downstream. Third, at mile 16.7 on County Forest #34, the Riverside trail is a 1.4-mile loop hike with a significant scenic stretch along the river. (At this writing, the trailhead is marked by a hand painted sign for the “Sylvan Falls Trail,” just beyond a parking lot for the county multi-use trail system). Finally, as the Sylvan Falls Road comes into Parishville, the town park and recreation area is on the left. The park features a beach, picnic area, and nature trail. Sylvan Falls Road now becomes Catherine Street and ends at NY 72.

St. Regis River from the Jones Road Bridge

PC6. Depeyster, Heuvelton and the Oswegatchie River

The Amish Loop

This route starts at the outlet of the Upper and Lower Lakes Wildlife Management Area, 0.9 miles east of the village of Rensselaer Falls on the Rensselaer Falls-Dekalb Junction Road. Park in the lot just east of the outlet dam of the Upper and Lower Lakes Bird Management Area. There is an observation tower here for viewing the Lower Lake area. The outlet goes into the Oswegatchie River shortly after passing under the road.

Rensselaer Falls is 4.5 miles south of NY 68, between Canton and Ogdensburg. It can also be reached from US 11, by taking CR 15 (Dekalb Jct.-Rensselaer Falls Road) west from just north of Dekalb Junction.

Turn left out of the parking lot on CR 15 and ride along the Lower Lake wetlands. At 0.6 miles, turn right on the McAdoo Road. This road goes through wetlands of the Oswegatchie River, and then passes Corning’s Canton plant. At mile 3.6, you reach NY 812. Turn right on NY 812, and you will soon cross the Oswegatchie River. After the bridge, you quickly reach the hamlet of Kendrew Corners. Take the left turn (the first one after the bridge) onto Stevenson Road, at 4.1 miles.

Gathering at Lower Lake Outlet for a fall ride

You will pass the old Kendrew school, church, and grange hall. Follow the Stevenson Road past a set of wetlands. The road then rises into an area of pasture and wooded lands. All too soon (7.6 miles), you will come to the end of this quiet road. At the junction with CR 17, turn right. At Mile 8.4, CR 17 crosses Beaver Creek, well worth a quick scenic stop. You are now entering a dairy farming region, with a number of Amish farms. Many of these have farm stands, where you can buy fresh vegetables, baked and canned goods, and crafts. At 9.7 miles, continue straight where CR 11 joins from the right. At 10.0 miles, continue straight on Mayhew Road when CR 11 turns left. You will soon see Mud Lake on your left. At mile 11.8, Mayhew Road ends at a T intersection. At the junction, turn right onto CR 10. The route continues through good farmland, with both Amish and English farms. You will enter the hamlet of Depeyster. Continue straight on Rte. 10. You will undoubtedly encounter horse-drawn wagons buggies and carts here. It is polite to wave to the Amish as you pass, but it is impolite to take their photographs. Horse-drawn vehicles go at a similar speed as bicycles. If you do have occasion to pass, make sure that there is plenty of room ahead and give the vehicle a wide berth.

At mile 18.4, CR 10 ends at NY 184. Continue straight here onto NY 184. The Oswegatchie River will appear on your left. NY 184 next enters the village of Heuvelton. In Huevelton, you will come to a stop sign at NY 812 (mile 19.6). Straight ahead is a small picnic area just above the dam. Turn left, and cross the bridge over the Oswegatchie River. Immediately over the bridge the bike route turns right onto Water Street. The Pickens Country Store is on this corner. It is well worth a stop for its locally handcrafted items, many from nearby Amish farms. Heuvelton is a favorite lunch stop on this route, whether you picnic or dine in.

Leaving Huevelton, head east on Water Street toward Rensselaer Falls. You will follow the river upstream and out of the village. Water Street will become Rensselaer Street, and then CR 15. At 21.3 miles, turn right on River Road. This is a quiet, one-lane paved road which is a highlight of the trip. In this section, the Oswegatchie has two brief sets of rapids, and both are good stopping places. The first is at 22.1 miles, the second is soon after this. At 22.9 miles, the road leaves the river, and heads back toward CR 15. On reaching CR 15 (24.0 miles), turn right and head into Rensselaer Falls. In Rensselaer Falls, the road rejoins the river at a site just below the old mill stream outlet. As you come into the village, you will find Kyle’s World and Ladies First Gallery on the right—Kyle specializes in vintage doors, windows, and other items saved when buildings are torn down. At the stop sign in the village, (mile 25.8) Chapins Country Market is a short distance to the left. The route, however, continues straight through Rensselaer Falls and to the Lower Lakes parking lot and end of the route. (mile 26.7)

Pickens General Store in Huevelton

Oswegatchie River Rapids along River Road

PC7. Potsdam-Winthrop Loop

A half day loop just for the sake of a scenic ride

This loop starts in Potsdam and includes both broad shouldered highways and quiet country roads. It follows the West Branch and Main Branch of the St. Regis River and can include a stop in Winthrop for a break. The route goes through a combination of forest and farm lands.

Daytime street parking is available on both sides of NY 11B in Potsdam. Alternatively, a municipal parking lot is available to the west of the fire station, which in turn is a block south of the junction of US 11 and NY 11B.

This route starts on the east side of downtown Potsdam at the junction of US 11 and NY 11B. Sitting at this junction is the Presbyterian church, one of two majestic red sandstone churches on this route. These are among the many red sandstone structures in the village and surrounding area, made from the locally quarried Potsdam sandstone. From this junction head northeast on US 11. Note that first three blocks of US 11 are curbed with limited shoulder, so should be ridden carefully. Once past this section, US 11 widens nicely to the broad shoulders characteristic of main routes in the area. Ride along US 11 for just over 5 miles, to the twin hamlets of West Stockholm and Sanfordville. On the far side of Sandfordville, the route turns onto Pickle Street, a quiet town road that continues east through rolling farmland with occasional glimpses of the west branch of the St. Regis River. About 100 yards north of the intersection of Pickle Street and Crane Road - at 805 Crane - is the High Peaks Winery, which is worth a visit either en route or après tour. Pickle Street merges with Rte. 49/83 at mile 11.3. At this point, an abandoned rail line crosses Pickle Street, and can be ridden with proper tires in dry weather. The route comes into Winthrop at mile 14. Stewart’s Convenience Store is here, as is the Goose Landing Restaurant.

The west and main branches of the Saint Regis River merge in Winthrop. On leaving Winthrop on Rte. 420, you will pass over the west branch and then the main branch in short order. Once on US 11, you will again pass over the main branch of the river. After a short short stretch on US 11, the ride heads south and west on a series of town roads through a variety of farm, forest, and wetland. It joins NY 11B at mile 23.5. Follow 11B west back to Potsdam the route passes over the west branch of the St. Regis one more time, on a high bridge.

Chapter 4. Massena/Cornwall Area

These cities on opposite sides of the St. Lawrence River and the international border are the gateways to the eastern half of the river valley as it leaves the Canadian-U.S. border.

Cornwall, Ontario

Cornwall is a city in transition. The huge paper mill that was the city's largest employer for decades closed in 2006 and has been demolished. Cornwall is emerging as a distribution center and a service center, and is in some ways a more pleasant place to live and visit than it was in the mill's heyday.

The Seaway International Bridge, comprised of two spans linking the U.S. shore with Cornwall Island and Cornwall Island with downtown Cornwall, for many years featured a high level bridge on the Canadian side. This was built in anticipation of an all-Canadian shipping route to the Great Lakes. It was rendered superfluous with the construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950s, and when the span reached the end of its useful life it was replaced by a new low level bridge that opened in 2014. The

Moses-Saunders Power Dam is also a product of the Seaway project, and features 16 hydroelectric units on each side of the two flags that mark the international border.

Seaway International Bridge from the Cornwall Bicycle Path (photo: J. Matthews)

Massena, New York

Massena has a long history in electrical power generation, aluminum production, and auto manufacturing, in addition to the Seaway operations. The town is the site of the St. Lawrence-Franklin D. Roosevelt Power Project, which shares the Robert Moses-Robert H. Saunders Power dam with the R. H. Saunders Generation Station on the Canadian side. Abundant available power made the location ideal for smelting aluminum, and Alcoa is operating the longest continuously running aluminum smelting operation in the world here. For a period of time General Motors produced aluminum-cast engines here, but due to changes in auto manufacturing that facility has been closed. The town is the location of the Eisenhower and Snell Locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway. Massena is striving to diversify its economy, to take advantage of its location in the scenic St. Lawrence Valley and closeness to the Adirondack Mountains.

Akwesasne

A complex geographical anomaly exists a short distance east of Massena and directly across the river from downtown Cornwall: the Akwesasne Mohawk First Nation. This semiautonomous nation spans two countries (Canada and the U.S.), two Canadian provinces (Ontario and Quebec), and the State of New York. There are a couple of areas along the border where people are living between the Canadian and U.S. border posts. The most prominent of these is Canada's Cornwall Island, the first point of arrival from the U.S. when travelling the Seaway International Bridge. Because of differing views taken by the First Nation and Canadian Border Services the border post that formerly operated on the island has been moved to downtown Cornwall leaving the entire island situated outside the border posts of both countries. This is viewed as a temporary arrangement and options to change this are being analyzed. Another small U.S. neighborhood just east of Akwesasne and near Fort Covington NY is also outside the posts, and is featured in the "Two Country Tour" described below.

While Native Americans have a long history in the St. Lawrence River Valley, the formal settlement of Mohawks at Akwesasne is often dated to 1755, when a new settlement was formed on the peninsula between the St. Lawrence and St. Regis Rivers. The Museum at the Akwesasne Cultural Center has photographic and ethnographic exhibits on the community. The center is located at 321 NY Rte. 37 in Hogansburg, NY. Call 518-358-2461 for hours.

Downstream of Cornwall

There are a number of attractions nearby that suggested some exploration by bike. Immediately east of Akwesasne the international land border between New York and Quebec has a couple of small, lightly-used road crossings. Our exploratory tour revealed little-travelled roads, attractive countryside, and the Lake Saint-Francis National Wildlife Reserve. The reserve is recognized as a wetland of international significance and provides significant habitat for waterfowl as well as an important stop for migrating birds. The province of Quebec has a huge network of marked cycling routes known as La Route Verte, of which the nearest branches are only a short distance from Cornwall. The route we describe below extends from near the Quebec-Ontario border to almost within sight of Montreal, and showcases the historic Soulange Canal and scenic stretches of the St. Lawrence.

One of the Robert Moses Park deer

Upstream of Massena

Both the U.S. and Canadian sides of the river offer excellent cycling. In New York, NY 131 showcases a number of the manmade and natural features of the shoreline, the most westerly of which is Wilson Hill Wildlife Management Area. Farther west than that are Coles Creek State Park and the village of Waddington, which are destinations of routes described in the Potsdam-Canton section. In Ontario, a long-distance cycling route known as the Waterfront Trail extends to the end of the Long Sault Parkway, described below, and westward all the way to Windsor, Ontario. We limit our view of the western-most extend of the Cornwall-Massena area to be the Prescott-Ogdensburg International Bridge. Between the Long Sault Parkway and that bridge there are Upper Canada Bird Sanctuary; Upper Canada Village (a living museum of life in the 19th century); the site of the War of 1812 Battle of Crysler's Farm; the Parks of the St. Lawrence with manicured lawns and a number of campgrounds; and good locations for swimming, including in the village of Morrisburg.

Both Massena (http://massena.ny.us/) and Cornwall (http://cornwalltourism.com/) offer multiple recreational, dining, lodging, and camping opportunities. Camping opportunities on the U.S. side include Robert Moses State Park near Massena and Coles Creek State Park near Waddington. On the Canadian side, Parks of the St. Lawrence operates a number of excellent campgrounds between Lake St. Francis and Morrisburg, including several on the Long Sault Parkway.

MC1. Route 131

Saint Lawrence Seaway, Eisenhower Lock, and Robert Moses Park

This ride covers nearly the full length of NY Rte. 131 along the St. Lawrence River, from west of Massena to the Eisenhower Locks and Robert Moses State Park. Portions can be ridden on a bike path and on dikes along the river. The dike trails parallel NY 131, and there are several opportunities to switch back and forth from one to the other.

NY 131 starts at a junction with NY 37 5.3 miles west of the junction of NY 56 and NY 37 in Massena. Parking is available at the observation tower that provides views of the Wilson Hill Wildlife Management area, 1 mile down NY 131. Some may want to start by bicycling back toward NY 37 to view the wetland beside the road. Another short detour near the start of the ride is to take the causeway over to Wilson Hill, about 0.5 miles from the start of the ride. However, note that there is plenty of river side riding on this route, so you may want to save these side trips for the end of the ride, time and energy permitting.

The route follows the St. Lawrence River. A paved bike path goes from Whalen Park to the Massena Country Club. At the country club, bicyclers must go out to NY 131, but almost immediately can enter the Richards Landing Dike Trail, which is unpaved. The dike trail skirts the Massena Town Beach, ending at the Massena Intake Boat Launch and picnic area. Riders have a choice between the bike paths and NY 131, which parallel each other. There are multiple opportunities to switch from one to the other on the route.

Massena Intake is the power canal that was built in 1903 to take St. Lawrence River water to a hydroelectric installation that fed the first commercial aluminum smelter at that location. Construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950s raised the river level. A diversion dam was built at the head of the intake, and NY 131 now passes over this dam. Riders can compare the water levels on the two sides of this dam to see the level that the river was raised to make the seaway.

Four miles past Massena Intake, NY 131 meets Barnhart Island Road. A left turn here takes you to Eisenhower Locks and Robert Moses State Park. A tunnel takes you under the lock. Use some caution here due to drains in the road and a somewhat narrow roadway. It is also relatively dark on a sunny day, both for bicyclers and vehicle drivers. We typically wait for a break in the traffic before entering the tunnel. The lock visitor center is to the right before entering the tunnel, and a scenic overlook is to the right after passing through the tunnel.

There is a crossroads one mile past the locks. The park campground is to the left here (1 mile). The nature center and nature center trails (0.3 miles) and Hawkins Point are to the right. Hawkins Point is 2.6 miles down Robinson Bay Road, then turn left for another 0.5 miles on Hawkins Point Road. Hawkins Point provides a panoramic overlook of the Moses-Saunders international hydroelectric power dam. The New York Power Authority Hawkin’s Point Visitor Center is also here (hours vary by season).

Going straight from the crossroads, the road crosses the old river channel below the Long Sault Dam. The old channel also serves as the bypass reach for the hydro dam during high water periods. Just past the bridge, a left turn will take you to the marina and the beach. The marina includes a picnic shelter, small convenience store in season, and restroom. The beach has a day-use fee in season, and provides swimming, picnicking and changing rooms. The park is known for wildlife viewing, including deer, osprey and beaver. It is well worth taking some time to explore the park before heading back.

The return trip retraces the trip out. Some may want to stay on NY 131, rather than following the Richards Landing Bike Trail and the Whalen Park walking/biking trail. The total trip length is 24 miles plus the riding that you do in the park.

Approach to Hawkins Point Power Dam Overlook and Visitor Center

MC2. Cornwall to the Long Sault Parkway

32 miles on river side bike path and parkway

This route features fine views of the St. Lawrence River, insight into hydroelectric power generation, glimpses of life in the 1950s, and manicured parkland in a landscape altered by the construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway. A little more than half the route is a bike path segment of the Waterfront Trail, which extends all the way from Windsor, Ontario to the Quebec border. The remainder, almost half, is on the Long Sault Parkway.

The start point is a parking lot in downtown Cornwall. From the entrance to the Seaway International Bridge, follow Water Street east paralleling the river. The first entrance on the right is a nondescript driveway, the second leads to a house with a vintage fighter plane on a pedestal, and the third leads to a parking lot where the tour begins. There are parks and playgrounds surrounding, and there are washrooms available close by.

A maze of bike paths leads west toward the bridge. There are two ways of passing the bridge. The easier, safer, more scenic way leads along the very shore of the river and passes underneath the bridge. It is also possible to stay closer to Water Street and walk bicycles across the approach road to the bridge. We followed the latter route on the way out and the former route on the return. The two choices converge a short distance west of the bridge.

The Waterfront Trail leads west, between the river and a long-abandoned canal that was used for navigation before today's Seaway was built. Swirls of current in the river suggest its power. Old, disused navigation locks are visible on the canal. In 2.4 miles, the path arrives at the entrance gate of Ontario Power Generation on the left. We spent a few minutes exploring the surrounding area including cycling up for a look at the huge Robert Moses-Robert H. Saunders power dam before returning to this point. We cycled north on the bike path, with some definite climbing required in places. The surface was rough for a short distance. In 0.8 miles, the trail brought us to the edge of Power Dam Drive, where the path turns left to run beside the road. Another 0.7 mile farther was an intersection with Vincent Massey Drive (CR 2), where the path turns left again to parallel Vincent Massey leading west. Parc Guindon is on the left a short distance farther, and we stopped to consult the interpretive signs describing both the immediate surroundings of the park and the Waterfront Trail.

Another 2.9 miles through dense woods leads to the Museum of the Lost Villages of the St. Lawrence. This volunteer-run facility commemorates ten communities that were inundated when the Seaway was built. At that time many houses and buildings were moved to the newly-created villages of Long Sault and Ingleside. Other structures were demolished. Some of the finest examples were relocated to this museum, where there's plenty of fascinating information about the Seaway project and also about the rural way of life in the 1950s. We spent well over an hour here.

From the museum 2.2 miles of cycling to the west leads to the entrance to the Long Sault Parkway. The flooding that created the Seaway caused about a dozen areas of high ground to become islands. Later the parkway connected them by a series of causeways and bridges. We opted to cycle the entire 6.2 mile length of the parkway to the Ingleside entrance with only a few brief pauses and to stop for sightseeing on the return. The parkway is quite exposed to winds that often sweep from west to east down the St. Lawrence, and we prefer where possible to cycle westwards early in the day and eastwards later.

Retracing our steps along the parkway, 1.6 miles from the Ingleside entrance led to East Woodlands Island campground and beach. We had lunch at a picnic table and a couple of us went for a swim. Continuing eastwards, 2.9 miles brought us to the Lock 21 Dive Site on Macdonell Island. Submerged at this location are the remains of an old navigation lock from the earlier Seaway. It is a popular exploration site for scuba divers, and camping is permitted here.

Continuing on the same route as the trip out, 3.8 miles leads to a shady gravel lane crossing the bike path. A sign announces the site of the Lost Village of Moulinette. We followed the lane a hundred yards or so to a parking lot. Then we walked a few yards to the shore and pondered the old road's disappearing into the waters of the St. Lawrence. This is one of the clearest examples of how historic infrastructure was flooded and vanished from view.

From Moulinette, it is 5.7 miles to the Ontario Power Generation gate. Continue on the bike path between the canal and the river. In a couple of hundred yards a prominent bike path branches right toward the river. After a short, steep descent it arrives at the St. Lawrence Power Development Visitor Centre. The front yard features a turbine blade used as a sculpture. The centre is open only on weekdays, but the site is very scenic and worth a visit even when it is closed. The side path continues on the river side of the Visitor Centre, then climbs back up to rejoin the main route of the Waterfront Trail only a short distance east of where it diverged. A final 1.9 miles leads back to the start point, passing along the way the footings of a long-gone railway bridge that used to run parallel to the Seaway International Bridge.

The house with the fighter jet on the pedestal belongs to the Royal Canadian Air Force Association, a veterans' club. They welcome the public to stop by for a bite of pub food and a glass or two at the bar. As is customary at such establishments, all are requested not to wear hats, in memory of veterans who have passed on. We found a stop here to be a very pleasant ending to our cycling day.

Riding on Long Sault Parkway

MC3. Two Country Tour

A 35-Mile Scenic Rural Route through New York and Quebec

A standard driving route from Massena to the Adirondack High Peaks follows NY Route 37 east through the settlement of Fort Covington before turning south. It’s not obvious from the highway, but a look at the map reveals that the Canadian border is only a few hundred yards to the north. The idea of exploring the area by bicycle suggested itself, and led to a scenic and unusual route.

The tour begins in Fort Covington. Parking is available in the lot next to the fire station on NY 37. A short distance east, follow County Road (CR) 42 south. It is pleasant easy cycling for 3.3 miles, at which point the 42 ends at Coggin Bridge to Bombay Road (CR 4). Turn left. In 2.5 miles, the 4 crosses the Salmon River; just before crossing the bridge there is a campground on the left. Cross the bridge, and where the 4 ends at a T-junction, turn left on the 37. Although it is a major highway, paved shoulders make for safe, pleasant cycling. In just 0.7 miles, turn right on CR 20 (Trout River to Westville Road). This is farm country, with one or two large cattle barns along the way.

In 5.9 miles is the Trout River border crossing. It is a beautiful community with fine trees and the Trout River flowing peacefully to the north. It took us only minutes to clear customs and continue our route into Quebec. The river is a welcome companion for 3.3 miles as the road winds along. You will reach Montée Leblanc; turn left. There are modest hills over the next 5 miles, leading to the small settlement of Cazaville. A left turn on Chemin Rivière à la Guerre is a shortcut, saving a few hundred yards to the point where it meets Quebec Rte. 132. Turn left.

The 132 is broad, well-surfaced, lightly-traveled, and makes for very enjoyable cycling. In 5.8 miles, you will reach Chemin de la Pointe-Fraser leading right. It is signposted for Réserve Nationale de Faune du Lac Saint-François (Lake St. Francis National Wildlife Reserve). Follow this side road about 0.7 miles to a visitor center operated by the Friends organization of the reserve. The volunteers at the center can give a good idea of the importance of this area, which is a wetland recognized as of international importance under the RAMSAR convention. Hiking and canoeing are permitted here, and we’ve made at least one return trip to walk the trails and appreciate the birds.

It is only 3.8 miles more to reach the international boundary and a curious anomaly. You pass the Canadian customs post and find yourself in a picturesque small community with the Salmon River flowing beside the road. There are a dozen or so houses in here, and a marker post showing the exact location of the international border. On the side of the road opposite the river is situated the now-sadly-derelict shell of the former Half Way Tavern, which was built in 1820 before the border was accurately surveyed. Legend has it that in its heyday the lively pub used to have a pool table with a line running diagonally across it making the exact location of the border. The houses are in what amounts to a gated community. Although they are inside the U.S., they are situated between the border posts of the two countries. When we were there we encountered a resident fishing happily in the river. He was quite personable and chatted amicably with us until his thoughts came to the trip into Fort Covington. He railed against the U.S. border guards for their inflexibility, rigidity, obstinacy, and many other undesirable traits. He ranted for several minutes before calming down and returning to chatting with us and to fishing. In a few more minutes his gaze fell upon the Canadian post and he launched a whole new tirade about how the Canadian guards were every bit as bad as the U.S. guards. After another couple of minutes of vitriol, he returned once more to fishing in one of the prettier streams we remember seeing anywhere.

Leopard frog on the Visitor Center Boardwalk

It is only a couple of hundred yards farther to the U.S. post, where the guards seemed quite surprised that we were arriving by bicycle; but they put us through without delay. Another few hundred yards returned us to Fort Covington. The day of our tour was very hot, and the village pub was able to provide a couple of cold beers which were just what was needed to end a unique tour.

If you’d like to enjoy this route, remember that a passport or other identity document approved for border crossings (such as an enhanced driver’s license) will be needed.

MC4. La Route Verte-Saint-Zotique to Pointe-des-Cascades

35 miles along the St. Lawrence River

The province of Quebec has a huge network of designated interconnected long-distance bicycle routes known collectively as La Route Verte (The Green Way), which extends into almost every corner of the province. We have sampled short stretches of it in a number of places and have never failed to be impressed by the routes, which are usually scenic or historic and are always well-marked and safe. The route described here is one of the closest to our area, and is an excellent introduction to this network.

The route starts at l'Hotel de Ville (the Town Hall) in Saint-Zotique, Quebec, where there is convenient parking. The village is on the shore of the St. Lawrence River about five miles east of the Ontario border. La Route Verte (signposted) passes through the back of the parking lot, and we followed it a short distance east but were stymied by construction which had temporarily closed the path. We used the main street of Saint-Zotique as an alternate and in most places there was abundant paved shoulder for cycling. To follow in our traces, stay on Rue Principale/Quebec Rte. 338 for 1.8 miles and then follow Rue Principale which continues straight where the highway, Rte. 338, swings left.

After 1.0 miles, Rue Principale ends at a park where a bike path begins. Follow the bike path through parkland beside the Soulange Canal on your right. This canal was a major route for commercial shipping at the start of the 20th century but has now been supplanted by the St. Lawrence Seaway to the south. Just across a side street the path passes a gazebo and some trail signs before passing under an old iron railway bridge. This area features the gates of one of the old canal locks.

Continue 1.3 miles to a small wooden bridge over a creek. Just past the bridge you could turn right to follow La Route Verte; we opted instead to cross the 338 and follow a parallel bike path eastward for 0.6 miles before crossing back over the 338 and over the canal bridge at the entrance to the community of Coteau-du-Lac. Immediately past the bridge La Route Verte leads left, eastward, starting at a small park with a pagoda-like pavilion. The path continues, passing over a bridge next to a former mill, where there are gates for controlling the water level in the canal.

Another 1.0 mile eastward the path crosses Chemin Saint-Dominique. Here La Route Verte is only a short distance away from the shore of the St. Lawrence River to the south. We decided to go down and evaluate Chemin du Fleuve (River Road) as an alternate. It seemed lightly travelled and very scenic, so we turned left and followed it the whole way to our turnaround point in Pointe-des-Cascades. There were good views of the St. Lawrence the whole way. En route we paused to enjoy a small riverside park with benches in Les Cedres and also to look at a large hydroelectric generating station.

Arriving in Pointe-des-Cascades, we followed Chemin du Fleuve to its very end, where a small lane leads steeply downhill. There are a few very short bike paths as well as roads here, and it is easy to make one's way to where the Soulange Canal ends at Lac Saint-Louis. A lighthouse marks the promontory on the opposite side of the canal, and a long pier juts out into the lake on the near side. It was possible to climb the stairs at the entrance to the first lock and look down the canal. A few people were fishing there. We also walked out to the end of the pier to appreciate the expansive view of Lac Saint-Louis.

We chose to retrace our steps and have lunch at the parks, near a large "Pointe-des-Cascades" sign arching over the canal bridge. There are interpretive signs, artifacts from the canal's heyday, and a gazebo close by. After lunch we followed La Route Verte the whole way back to the pedestrian bridge near the major overpass of Quebec Rte. 201, where we crossed the canal for the last time. Just before rejoining the 338 to return to l'Hotel de Ville we paused to admire the view across the St. Lawrence. The northern Adirondacks were clearly visible. We could identify Lyon Mountain, the wind turbines near Chateaugay, NY, and possibly Titus Mountain. From here it was less than twenty minutes to our end point.

Parks of Pointe-des-Cascades

Chapter 5. The Northwestern Adirondacks

The Northwestern Adirondacks is a special place of mountains, lakes and rivers. It is not hard to get off the beaten path here—even while staying on paved roads. This group of rides goes from Oxbow, on the Oswegatchie River in the west, through Star Lake and Cranberry Lake, to the Raquette River in the east. These rides feature the Oswegatchie, Grass, and Raquette Rivers, three of the north flow rivers that are features of the area.

These routes center around the village of Gouverneur and the hamlets of Star Lake, Cranberry Lake, South Colton, DeGrasse, and Oxbow. All are in southern St. Lawrence County. The state has campgrounds at Cranberry Lake and South Colton (Higley Flow). The area also has several motels, and a number of rental cabins and bed and breakfasts. Of note are Catamount Lodge and Packbasket Adventures. Catamount Lodge is on Rte. 56 south of South Colton. The lodge accommodates 10, with a full kitchen. Packbasket Adventures is in Wanakena on the banks of the Oswegatchie River. It has both cabins and rooms in the main lodge. Details for both are available on their respective websites. Details on further lodging and recreations options in the area can be found at http://www.northcountryguide.com/Visiting/

In addition to great bicycling, the region features numerous hiking, swimming and paddling opportunities. Guides to the area attractions can be found at the chamber of commerce sites, the Adirondack Mountain Club Laurentian Chapter website, http://adklaurentian.org/, and North Country Now, http://northcountrynow.com/day-trips. The history of the area revolves around mining, logging, and papermaking. Gouveneur is known for talc and marble, and papermaking continues just downstream at Natural Bridge. Paper was made in Newton Falls for many years, and iron ore mining at nearby Benson Mines was active until 1978. Remnants of both industries are apparent on the Newton Falls/Wanakena route. Slightly to the north, the now-gone settlements of Clarksboro and Newbridge on the Tooley Pond Road were once thriving communities. Further details are in the Tooley Pond route description. The Northwestern Adirondack rides are:

NA1. Raquette River Hydro Route

Six Raquette River Reservoirs above South Colton

This route starts in South Colton, and follows the Raquette River upstream past five hydro dams and their scenic reservoirs. The route has a net 450 foot elevation gain along the Raquette River Road, with some significant descents that increase the uphill pedaling total. From the peak elevation (of 1350 feet above sea level) on the Raquette River Road, the route descends 150 feet as it travels on Stark Road to NY 56. It then goes through an area known as The Plains, and then descends 300 feet into South Colton to end the ride.

The route starts at the Sunday Rock parking area on NY 56, at the north end of South Colton. Sunday Rock is a local landmark that for many years was seen to mark the boundary between civilization and “the wild.” The route heads south on 56, which crosses the Raquette just below the South Colton dam. The route turns left here, onto the Snell Road, then immediately right again onto the Raquette River Road. Almost ten hilly miles follow before the route pulls away from the Raquette.

It is worthwhile to pause at small camp entrances with views of Five Falls and Rainbow Falls Reservoirs. About four miles past Rainbow Falls Picnic Area is the entrance to Blake McNeill Campground. About a mile farther there begins a significant climb that leads to a high point with a good view back over the reservoirs. A fast descent soon arrives at the intersection of Stark Road. The route turns right here.

A brief detour to the left on Stark Road leads to the Stark Reservoir Boat Launch and Overlook. Turn left on Stark Road. In 0.5 miles, there is a gravel road on the right to Carry Falls Dam. In another 0.2 miles, Stark Road crosses the Stark reservoir bypass reach—the historic path of the river. A significant but often dry falls is just above the road. At 0.3 miles farther, a right turn will take you a short distance to the Stark Reservoir boat launch and picnic area. Carry Falls Dam is 1.5 miles from Stark Road up the marked gravel road. Carry Falls Reservoir is the storage reservoir for this section of river.

At the junction of the Stark Road and NY 56, a 2.8 mile detour (each way) south on 56 takes you to the western shore of Carry Falls Reservoir. Pass the Catamount Lodge on your left, and you will soon come to a trailhead to Catamount Mt., which is a hike of about three hours round trip to a summit with a view of the river. Past this trailhead is another area which is a car top boat launch onto Carry Falls Reservoir.

Rainbow Falls Dam on the Raquette River Road

From the corner of Stark Road and NY 56, the return route follows the 56 northwards for about 2 miles over The Plains, a sandy, forested area remarkable for being almost perfectly level in this generally very hilly region. The road then drops several hundred feet into a valley bordering Snow Bowl State Forest. The road through the gap in the hills here featured, for many years, a well-known S-bend following the bed of Cold Creek. Following a destructive flood, the road was redesigned and reconstructed. Although the S-bend was scenic and a favorite landmark, most travelers seem to agree the straighter and safer path of the new road is very attractive too. From the Snow Bowl a final 1.5 mile descent leads back into South Colton, with the end point at Sunday Rock only 0.5 miles beyond.

Two attractions in South Colton are worth knowing about. Just south of the Raquette River Bridge, Cold Brook Drive leads west toward Higley Flow State Park, which has a campground, beach, boat launch, and a network of fine hiking trails. The Mahogany Ridge Bar and Grill, in the center of the village, offers pub food during the late afternoon and supper in the early evening and is popular locally.

Hydropower glossary

•Dam–likely self-explanatory, the structure that holds the water back, and creates and regulates the level of the impoundment.

•Bypass Reach–A route around the dam for water. Used during spring runoff and other times when river flow exceeds the hydro turbine’s capacity. Minimum flow levels in the bypass reach are sometimes specified. The water level and flow in bypass reaches can fluctuate suddenly, so they need to be approached accordingly.

•Powerhouse–the house at the bottom of the dam or penstock that houses the hydro turbines and generators.

•Penstock—an enclosed pipe that takes water from the dam to the powerhouse.

•Run of the river–A hydro dam that is operated to maintain the level of the reservoir above the dam.

•Storage reservoir–A reservoir whose purpose is to store water for hydroelectric generation or other purposes. The level of storage reservoirs often fluctuate significantly.

•Surge tank–A water storage tank that protects the hydro turbine from surges and water hammers.

•Reservoir–The body of water above the dam. Also referred to as the impoundment or pond.

NA2. Cranberry Lake-Newton Falls-Wanakena

Enjoy the Oswegatchie near Cranberry Lake

This trip starts where Tooley Pond Road meets NY 3 from the north, on the west side of the hamlet of Cranberry Lake. Parking is available in the hamlet of Cranberry Lake, a fraction of a mile east of the junction on NY 3, at the Town of Clifton Community Center. There is a community beach nearby, with a nice view of Cranberry Lake. An alternative is to park at the nearby state boat launch on S Columbian Road, which goes south from NY 3 just west of the Tooley Pond Road. Make your way from either parking spot to the start of the ride at the junction of NY 3 and Tooley Pond Road. In Cranberry Lake, the Stone Manor diner/motel and Lakeside General Store are near the community center. A New York State campground is just to the east of the hamlet.

The first leg of the trip follows the Tooley Pond Road for 2.7 miles. It then turns left to follow the River Road for 6.3 miles to the village of Newton Falls. There are stillwaters and creek entrances along the way, at least one of which seemed to invite swimming if time allowed. Before entering Newton Falls, the road crosses the river. There is a small beach/picnic area on the right soon after crossing the bridge. Entering Newton Falls, the buildings of a former paper mill will be seen. On reaching the old hotel on the left (now closed), turn left onto County Rte. (CR) 60 (Benson Mines Road). The houses in the community seem in good condition but in the style of a bygone era. A couple of miles beyond the edge of the village, the route passes the mine, tailings, and works of the Benson Mine, where iron ore was mined until 1978.

CR 60 is just over 3 miles, and ends at a junction with NY 3. Some derelict facilities from the days of the mining are at this junction. Turn left onto NY 3, heading back east toward Cranberry Lake. NY 3 features broad paved shoulders and pleasant road through forested lands. In 4 miles, take the right turn into Wanakena on CR 61. Wanakena is situated at the point where the Oswegatchie River enters Cranberry Lake. If you bear right at the first Y in the road, and then left just before crossing the river, you will reach the river at a small park. The park features a display on Wanakena’s logging history. This is also the start of the historic Wanakena pedestrian bridge across the Oswegatchie. The bridge was badly damaged by ice in the winter of 2012–2013. The community raised funds to reconstruct it, and it has recently been repaired and reopened.

Wanakena is also the home of the SUNY ESF Ranger School, which sits on a scenic arm of Cranberry Lake. It is a total of 2.3 miles from NY 3, and can be reached by keeping left at both Y’s in the road. Several walking trails are available from the campus. The Pine Cone restaurant is on Ranger School Road.

There are many hiking trails in the area. One easily accessible example is the Moore Trail, which starts on the near side of the road bridge over the river. The trail follows a series of rapids upstream for a couple of miles to the canoe launch at Inlet. This is the start of a popular canoe route leading several miles up the Oswegatchie.

Leaving Wanakena, retrace your path to NY 3. Turn right onto NY 3, for the final seven mile leg of the trip back to the Tooley Pond Road and hamlet of Cranberry Lake. A pull-out picnic area on the north side of NY 3 makes a pleasant pause en route. At the end in Cranberry Lake, there are several pleasant options for ending the day including a swim at the community beach, an ice cream cone at the window of the Stone Manor, or a bite to eat at one of the restaurants.

Riding the River Road along the Oswegatchie

NA3. Tooley Pond Road Trip

22 miles round trip, with several possibilities for short hikes

The Tooley Pond Road ride follows the South Branch of the Grass River upstream through Adirondack forest lands. This stretch of the Grass has 6 waterfalls, all a short distance from the road. The route leaves the Grass watershed and rises over a shoulder of Tooley Pond Mountain. It ends at Tooley Pond, which sits on the mountain shoulder and is in the Oswegatchie River watershed. The route rises 700 feet, before falling 50 feet to the pond. The return route along the road has significant downhill glides with regular downstream views of the river. There are few residences on this section of road, and vehicle traffic on the road is generally light. Trails to the falls are not all well marked, so both mileage and gps coordinates are given.

Route

The route starts at the north end of Tooley Pond Road, on County Rte. (CR) 27 at the east edge of the hamlet of DeGrasse (N44 21.094, W75 4.379, elev. 850’). All road distances given are from the junction of CR 27 and the Tooley Pond Road. Immediately after turning onto the Tooley Pond Road, go past a garage on the right and a small gravel pit on left. Parking is available along the road, with sufficient room to get completely off the road. Tooley Pond Road is a paved mountain road with limited ditching. Expect places where rocks will be pushing up through the pavement, and other places where sand has washed onto the road if there have been recent rains.

John Barron at Copper Rock Falls

Once underway, you will pass a house on the right, and will get a good view of the river as you curve round, by an abandoned trailer and under a power line. These will be the last signs of settlement for some time, apart from an occasional seasonal camp or hunting club tucked away in the woods. Start a long steady climb with occasional views of the river rapids on the right.

At 1.3 miles (N44 20.581, W75 3.198, elev. 944’) the trail to Basford Falls is on the right. The trail is marked by two red steel posts with a large rock in between. There is a semi-permanent sign at the trailhead. The trail follows this old road to the falls. The falls are nearly a half mile from the road.

At 1.9 miles, you reach a parking area/kiosk on the right. (N44 20.309, W75 2.688 elev. 957 ft.) The kiosk has a map and description of the road and surrounding area. Sinclair Falls is both seen and heard from this parking lot. There is a herd path from the lot to the base of the falls, which goes down steeply from the lot. Another option is to continue a few feet up Tooley Pond Road past the parking lot to the Lake George Road. This road crosses the river on a bridge that sits right at the top of the falls. There is good viewing from the bridge, and an easier trail goes down the east side of the river along the falls.

Tooley Pond Road continues upstream along the Grass above Sinclair Falls. The forest here is mixed hard and softwood. Maple, white birch, and yellow birch are prevalent among the hardwoods. White pine, hemlock, cedar, and spruce are among the softwoods.

At 3.0 miles, (N44 20.036, W75 1.533 elev. 986’) the road comes to the base of Twin Falls. There is a good view of the smaller of the two falls from the road, but the larger fall is nearly hidden. It is state land here, but there is private land a short distance back down the road. If you are careful to note the boundaries, you can reach the river from the state land for a better view of the larger of the two falls, which is on the far side of the river. Beyond this viewing point, the road climbs beside the river and comes very close to the top of the smaller, eastern fall. There was once a mill at this site, and some of the rockwork lining the river can still be seen here. The small community of Clarksboro was near here at that time.

We have seen deer and bear along the road in this stretch, and you will likely see sign of both, if not the creatures themselves. The birding is also good along this road.

The road follows the river closely now for a scenic stretch that lasts nearly a mile. Stewart Rapids are seen toward the end of this section. The road then leaves the river, passing the entrance to Twin Falls Club (a private club) at 4.7 miles. While the forest floor has had significant mossy stretches to this point, open sections of forest are now becoming heavily ferned.

Rainbow Falls

The trail to Rainbow Falls is at 5.9 miles (N44 18.436, W74 59.646 elev. 1237’) There is a small clearing on the right at this point. The clearing is separated from the road by a set of 5 boulders. Walk past the boulders and through the clearing bearing left. The trail becomes more apparent as it enters the forest, and is easily followed after that point. In about 5 minutes, you will hear the river and come to a narrow bridge crossing a small branch of the river, onto an island. The main branch of the river is across the island—the most direct crossing will take you to the top of the falls, where the river narrows and drops about 40’ into a gorge. Care needs to be taken here—there are none of the fences or guards that mark other more popular waterfalls. The wild nature of these falls is most apparent here at Rainbow, and it is well worth taking an extended break here to enjoy the falls and gorge.

Tooley Pond Road now enters a relatively flat stretch. At 7.8 miles, (N44 17.170, W74 58.527, elevation 1221 ft.) Tooley Pond Road crosses the Grass River at Newbridge. This is the former site of a settlement of that name, when forestry and iron smelting were done here. Just beyond the bridge, a parking lot is on the right. A trail leads from the parking lot along a flat stretch of the river here.

The trailhead to Copper Rock Falls is at 8.6 miles (N44 17.157, W74 57.603, elev. 1239). The trailhead is now on the left—it is marked by a DEC sign, an orange blaze on a tree, and a semi-permanent sign saying “Copper Rock Falls.” The walk into the first of the Copper Rock Falls takes approximately 5 minutes. Here, the river drops over a series of drops over copper hued bedrock. There are 2 more falls above this one, with a rustic trail leading to them.

The road now leaves the Grass River and climbs to on an eastern shoulder of Tooley Pond Mountain. At 10.4 miles (N44 16.738, W74 55.689, elev. 1563’), you reach the high point of this shoulder. One of the two trailheads for Tooley Pond Mountain is here. From this point, the hike to the summit is 0.75 miles.

The road enters into the Oswegatchie River watershed at this point. Tooley Pond is reached at 11.0 miles (N44 16.469, W74 55.142, elev. 1521’). There is a kiosk, picnic table, and small parking area at the pond. There is a larger parking lot on the left just before reaching the pond, with an outhouse at the back. The 2nd trailhead for Tooley Pond Road leaves from this point. It is 1 mile to the summit on this trail. The mountain can be climbed as a loop, with a short road walk between the 2 trailheads.

Tooley Pond Road becomes unpaved shortly after Tooley Pond, and road bicyclers tend not to ride beyond this point. The Tooley Pond Road ride offers many different possibilities, with multiple opportunities for side trips on the river or on Tooley Pond Mountain. One of our favorites is a relaxed day with stops at Sinclair, Twin, and Rainbow Falls, and a lunch break at Copper Rock Falls. The return trip is predominantly downhill, so a large and long lunch is not out of the question. A more ambitious ride is to go all the way to Tooley Pond, which we generally do this with fewer stops. It is possible to swim at several points on this ride, Tooley Pond being one of them. The pond tends to be shallow at the east end, however, and swimmers need to go out some distance to truly swim.

Twin Falls

The South Branch falls as the river flow from the south:

Copper Rock Falls: Copper Rock Falls is actually 3 distinct falls, each perhaps 10-15 feet in height. Copper Rock is the only set of falls above Newbridge, with the river on the east side of Tooley Pond Road. The upstream and center falls are in narrow sections of the river and are best viewed from below the falls. The bottom most falls (and the first that to be reached from the road) comes as the river widens around a curve. The river splits around an island here. At normal river flows the westerly, trailside flow goes over a series of steps on broad, copper colored bedrock. This is a great place for an extended lunch or even an afternoon nap. On the east side of the island, the river falls in a more traditional waterfall, which is best viewed from the far reach of the open rock in the river below the island.

Rainbow Falls: We consider Rainbow Falls to be the most spectacular of the Grass River Falls along Tooley Pond Road. In summer, the river falls 30 feet into a gorge at this point, and it is generally easy to see rainbows in the mist below the falls. The river actually splits above the falls, and the trail crosses over a small branch of the river and onto an island. Crossing directly across the island brings you to a breathtaking vista at the top of the falls. The trail works its way downstream and into the gorge, with many good and differing views back up towards the falls. A perpetual mist covers the gorge, with an interesting mix of plants and mosses on the far shore.

Bulkhead Falls: Bulkhead Falls rides over a broad (bulkhead like) section of bedrock and into a small pond, with about a 25-foot drop. It is a short distance from the road, about 3.5 miles from the DeGrasse end of Tooley Pond Road.

Twin Falls: Twin Falls is viewable directly from the Tooley Pond Road. The larger of the falls drops about 50 feet across a broad bedrock front. It sits at the former settlement of Clarksboro, where both iron smelting and limbering were conducted. The river splits around an island above the falls, and the bulk of the flow is to the west, away from the road. Twin Falls is the only one of the Tooley Pond Road waterfalls with a significant plunge pool at its base. There is a mix of public and private lands on the road below the falls, with the best views of the far falls from off the road. The smaller falls are readily viewed from the road. As the road climbs beside the falls, this smaller falls is particularly close to the road and close examination reveals some of the rock work that was done when the mill was here.

Sinclair Falls: Sinclair Falls is a broad, gradual waterfall at a point where the river bends. The total drop is about 25 feet. There is a parking area and information kiosk on Tooley Pond Road at the Twin Falls location, and the falls can be seen through the leaves from this location. A narrow and somewhat steep trail leaves from this parking lot and comes to the river below the falls. A short distance south of the parking lot is the junction with the Lake George Road. The Lake George Road crosses the Grass River on a bridge that sits directly at the top of Sinclair Falls. The Falls can be viewed directly from this bridge (it is lightly traveled). There are also paths along the falls on the east side of the river at this point.

Basford Falls: At Basford, the river falls about 15 feet in one step. The hike to Basford Falls is the longest distance from the Tooley Pond Road, nearly one half mile each way. There is a nice grove of white pine across a small stream the enters the river just below the falls.

History

Clarksboro. The Potsdam Courier, November 27, 1901, ran a front page story “Interesting Ruins—A Deserted Village on the Edge of the Adirondacks. Back among the rocky hills of the Adirondack woods…lies the ruins of what was once the prosperous mining village of Clifton, now dwindles down from a place of two thousand inhabitants to a little settlement of eight or ten houses, a store, tavern and blacksmith shop, known as Clarksboro…Clarksboro was surveyed for a city, and around it may be seen…ruins of what was once as flourishing an industry as any town in St. Lawrence county can boast of today.” Over 100 years after this article was written, the only apparent sign of Clarksboro along Tooley Pond Road is along the road as the river approaches Twin Falls on the east side of the river. One can only imagine a settlement of 2000 individuals at this site, with a wooden railroad connecting it to Dekalb.

Newbridge. From Potsdam Courier Observer, August 29, 1919

NEWBRIDGE IS NO MORE.

Lumbering Town Now Abandoned Is Being Junked.

St. Lawrence County has a deserted village. The little village of Newbridge in the Adirondacks, which has been the scene of so much business activity, is now being junked. The R. W. Higbie Company has finished its lumbering in that locality and it is said that the land has been acquired by the state. Houses which furnished homes for lumbermen, some of which are quite pretentious dwellings, are being sold for what they will bring, the purchasers agreeing to move them off. The houses are said to bring from $75 to $100. Many are buying the houses to tear down and reconstruct in other places for summer cottages.

Copper Rock Falls

NA4. Oxbow

Featuring five bridges over the Oswegatchie

Of the four large rivers that flow northward from the Adirondack Mountains to the St. Lawrence River, the westernmost, the Oswegatchie, has a very unusual feature. Rising in the Five Ponds Wilderness of the Adirondacks, it flows west-northwest for a long distance. Suddenly, in the tiny settlement of Oxbow, the river reverses course 180 degrees to travel due east for a while before winding its way north to join the St. Lawrence. The bend invited exploration, and this route is the result.

The tour begins in Gouverneur. Arriving on US 11 from Canton, just before crossing the bridge over the Oswegatchie turn right on Clinton Street. Almost immediately, there will be a municipal parking lot where you can park without charge.

From the lot, cycle north on Clinton Street. In about ten minutes you will reach the intersection of Little Bow Road; turn left on Little Bow. The road carries you through woods and scrub farms. There are moderate vistas ahead as you gradually lose elevation. The road swings to the right (north) and in ten or fifteen minutes reaches an intersection with Gravel Road. (That is its name; it is in fact paved.) Turn left. Gravel will take you southwest, across NY 58 where it changes name to Kearney Road, and before long down to a bridge across the Oswegatchie, the first glimpse of the river since Gouverneur. Kearney Road climbs out of the river valley and continues a mile or so generally south where it ends at CR 12.

Turn right on the 12, and watch for the next two features that pop up quickly. In 0.7 miles, turn right on a gravel road leading to a decrepit bridge across the river. The island ahead has the feel of a ghost town. Return to the 12 and continue westward about 0.7 miles to where a well-maintained bridge crosses the river. Take the bridge across, noting that the Oswegatchie is flowing from right to left–southwest–beneath you. Turn right on the gravel road which trends north to northeast, with one short, 100-yard swing to the northwest. The road emerges from the woods to the riverside near a second well-maintained bridge–this time with the Oswegatchie flowing from left to right–northeast! The far side of the bridge is on the boundary of Yellow Lake State Forest, which invites an exploration by hiking someday.

At the 3rd Bridge over the Oswegatchie

Retrace your steps to the 12, turn right, and cycle through Oxbow. There is little to the settlement beyond a post office and a small store. The bend in the river is very close to this location, but unfortunately it is concealed behind private property. Continue through the village; the road changes route number several times as it swings from a southwesterly to northeasterly direction, briefly entering Jefferson County. At the intersection with CR 3, continue straight on the road, now called CR 10.

The road climbs and passes a fishing trailhead with a distant prospect of Yellow Lake. In another half mile or so, turn right off the 10 onto Liscum Road/Hall Road. This attractive cottage road continues for 2.6 miles, where it becomes Yellow Lake Road. Then it drops steeply off the high ridge in an exciting series of turns and reaches NY 58.

Cross the 58 carefully and continue a short distance on Raceway Road to where it ends at a T-junction.

A caution note is in order regarding the 58. Many cycling routes can easily be adapted for various reasons, and using the 58 could suggest some options in this area. But it is a very heavily travelled route, with almost no shoulders and in some places steep-sided embankments right beside the road. It creates dangerous conditions for cycling and we do not recommend using it.

At the T-junction where Raceway Road ends, a right turn on Lockie Road will shortly take you to a dead end. This is where one of a considerable number of former bridges across the Oswegatchie was located. We stepped across the barrier and used the rocky promontory where the bridge had stood as a picnic ground, admiring the powerful river below us.

Retrace your steps on Lockie Road, continuing past Raceway and northeast through mixed forest and farm country. At the intersection with Little Bow, continue straight on what is now Cream of the Valley Road (Little Bows bridge is one of the discontinued ones). In 3.6 miles from the lunch stop turn right on Stevens Road, and in another 1.1 miles, right again on Peabody Road.

Peabody descends gradually to the final crossing of the Oswegatchie and then makes a steep 200-foot climb before leveling out and returning in 3.2 miles to the start point in Gouverneur.

Duck family

Chapter 6. The Northern Foothills of the High Peaks

The North Country's southern fringes border the High Peaks of the Adirondacks. These routes in the foothills of the mountains feature some significant climbs and descents. The region is known for its forested lands, mountain views, and rivers and lakes.

The Long Lake route is perfect for a relaxed lunch in the hamlet of Long Lake, either a picnic on the beach or in a restaurant overlooking the lake. The other three routes are loop rides through the parklands that dominate the area—so best to bring all you will need for the day on these rides.

The Malone to Mountain View route has the largest vertical gain, as it climbs over the shoulder of Titus Mountain. The Sabbatis Circle Road passes several lakes as well as a waterfall on the Bog River. The Red Tavern Road route is a varied loop that passes Deer River Flow and the St. Regis River, several mountains, Meacham Lake, and the town of St. Regis Falls; almost half of it is on the wide paved shoulders of a parkway and the remainder is on lightly-travelled roads.

The Wild Center in Tupper Lake is a popular museum focusing on the natural history of the Adirondacks, and the Adirondack Museum in nearby Blue Mountain Lake features the human history of the mountains. Both are good destinations for rainy days or for those days when a change from biking is in order. The Paul Smiths Visitor Information Center (VIC) is 10 miles south of the midway point of the Red Tavern Ride. It features trails and exhibits. If you go, be sure to see the documentary slide show and visit the butterfly house.

Tupper Lake and Malone, two of the larger towns in the region, both have a selection of lodging and eating selections. Tupper Lake has a municipal campground, and there are a number of states campgrounds nearby.

The Northern Foothills Rides:

FHP1. Sabattis Bog and Little Tupper Lake

Good biking and birdwatching

This scenic loop that starts on the southern tip of Tupper Lake includes views of Sabattis Bog, Round Lake outlet, and Little Tupper Lake. The DEC Headquarters at Little Tupper Lake provide scenic views and a scenic, park like setting for lunch or a break.

The route starts from the South Bay scenic pull off on NY 30 at the southern end of Tupper Lake. From Tupper Lake Village, follow NY 30 south. South Bay pull off is 5.8 miles south of the NYSDEC boat launch. It is the southernmost of the two scenic pull offs overlooking the lake in this area. When coming from Long Lake on NY 30, this is the first pull off/scenic parking area on Tupper Lake.

Note that there can be inconsistency between road names and numbers between the posted road names/numbers and some maps.

The ride heads south on NY 30 past the north end of Sabbatis Circle Road (CR 10A). It then makes a long climb over a shoulder of Buck Mountain, followed by a fast descent to the south end of this road (CR 10). The route then heads northwest on CR 10, past small ponds and wetland until it crosses an inlet to Little Tupper Lake and then the junction with the Sabattis Road. A left turn on Sabattis Road takes you over the outlet of Little Tupper Lake which flows into nearby Round Lake. A short ride brings you to the DEC Headquarters on Little Tupper. There are mature trees, picnic tables, and a chance for swimming in the lake.

On the return, at Sabattis Circle Road turn left and head to the northeast. This road travels through Sabattis Bog and offers the opportunity to see a number of boreal bird species. A primary viewing spot is where the road dips and is nearly at the bog level. Just after this, it climbs and offers a view of the bog to the right. At the end of this road, a left turn on NY 30 heads back to the route end.

The route includes two possible extensions. The first continues west from Little Tupper Lake on Sabattis Road for further bird watching, particularly on the north side of the road between Bear Pond and Sabattis Station. The route extension continues west along Sabattis Road, much of which is unpaved. Bear Pond is just under 5 miles down this road. Another option on this extension is to follow the road to Lake Lila, which departs Sabattis Road to the left at about the 3.5 mile mark. This road is 5 miles long, and ends at a gate that marks the start of the wilderness area. Bicycles are not allowed past the gate. A short walk down the canoe carry takes you to the east end of the lake, and a longer trail skirts a ridge and then follows the northern shore of the lake. Lake Lila is very popular for canoeing, and it is possible to combine canoeing with a short hike up Mount Frederica, at the west end of the lake.

The second extension is highly recommended very near the end of the route. Just under a mile down NY 421, the road passes over the Bog River as it falls into Tupper Lake. A stone arch bridge sits astride the falls, and offers nice views of the falls and of the lake.

Outlet from Little Tupper going to Round Pond

Little Tupper Lake at DEC Headquarters

FHP2. Tupper Lake South Bay to Long Lake

A good way to visit Long Lake

This route also starts from the South Bay scenic pull off at the South End of Tupper Lake. Ride FHP1 gives directions. From the pull off, ride 13.1 miles south on NY 30 to Long Lake village, where NY 30 crosses the lake. A municipal beach and park are just past the bridge over the Long Lake Narrows. Another good option is the DEC boat launch, just bear left after crossing the lake where NY 30 takes a sharp right turn. There are several dine-in lunch spots in Long Lake, including the Adirondack Hotel, where the dining porch looks down the lake. A trip to Long Lake isn’t complete without a stop at Hoss’s Country Corner General Store, a bit further at the junction of NY 30 and NY 28N.

The return to South Bay makes a round trip distance of 26 miles.

The iconic Adirondack Hotel in Long Lake

Long Lake Waterfront

FHP3. Red Tavern Road

40-mile loop ride forest ride

This loop features a long stretch on the quiet Red Tavern Road. As described, the route starts and ends in St. Regis Falls, but the ride can be started from several other spots, including Santa Clara or the Meacham Lake outlet.

Parking: Municipal parking is available near the fire department, just north of where NY 458 crosses the St. Regis River. St. Regis Falls has a campground and convenience store with deli.

Route Description. The Red Tavern Road comes down the hill from St. Regis Falls, and goes through several miles of bottom lands before coming to the East Branch of the St. Regis River. The route features good river views and then comes to Everton Falls. A path goes from the road to the falls, which are well worth up close viewing—in low water, rock hopping can take you almost to the middle of the falls. A car top boat launch is several hundred yards above the falls, and there is a parking lot at that location. A Nature Conservancy trail leaves from the parking lot.

After Everton Falls, the road climbs with several good views to the south. It then descends, and soon passes the Red Tavern. It again enters a section of bottomland, this time in the Deer River Valley. The road crosses two branches of the Deer and goes by the private Deer River Campsite. Red Tavern Road then climbs up to the junction with NY 30. The loop heads south from this junction, by woods and lakes with occasional views of Debar Mountain. At mile 23, NY 30 crosses the outlet of Meacham Lake, the headwaters of the east branch of the St. Regis River. There is a small parking lot at the dam here, with a top-notch scenic view upstream toward Meacham Lake.

Debar Mountain from the Deer River Flow

Soon after crossing the St. Regis is the junction with NY 458. The route turns right here, and heads back toward Santa Clara. This stretch of road passes by a wet land and then begins a slow but steady climb through forested land with regular views to one side or the other. The route passes over the Middle Branch of the St. Regis River and enters Santa Clara. A left turn just over the bridge will bring you to a boat launch area with dock and outhouse.

After Santa Clara, the paved shoulders on NY 458 become narrower, and the route becomes hillier with houses scattered along the route. About 2.5 miles after leaving Santa Clara, the route passes the start of the Blue Mountain Road. Deer Valley Trails Restaurant and Cabins is 2.5 miles down this road, and the trailhead to Azure Mountain is another 4.5 miles further—this last section being unpaved. Both are worth a visit, but probably not by bicycle so near the end of this trip. The ride ends with NY 458 taking a long downhill stretch into St. Regis Falls, and crossing the St. Regis River, now downstream of the junction of the east and middle branches of the river.

Everton Falls

FHP4. Malone to Mountain View Lake

34 Miles, Strenuous

The inspiration for this route was one of the hiking destinations of Kids on the Trail! – Hiking with Children in the Adirondacks by Rose Rivezzi and David Trithart. Owl’s Head is a small peak near the village of the same name, featuring a moderate, partly off-trail climb to a cliff top with a fabulous view. The thought that the surrounding countryside seemed to have much to recommend in it as a cycling destination led to this route.

The start point is at Malone Memorial Recreation Park in Malone. Cycle a few yards northwest on Duane Road. to the corner of Hillsdale Terrace. Climb steeply up Hillsdale–all but one of our party had to walk here–and continue to the corner of Finney Blvd, which is NY 30. Turn left. The route stays on the 30 for seven miles. There are wide shoulders and good cycling. We paused periodically along the way for water and rest, and in some places we noted fine wild berries growing right beside the road. Turn left onto Fayette Road (CR 41).

In our planning we underestimated the difficulty of this next segment. Shortly after leaving NY 30 there is a very steep climb of a couple of hundred feet, where again some of us had to walk. There is a descent, followed by a mile or two of flat to rolling terrain, and then another fast descent which passes some of the runs of Titus Mountain ski area. As the grade levels off, the road crosses a bridge over the Salmon River. There is a dam here and it's a good idea to pause to enjoy the scenery. From the dam there is a gravel road (Webber Road) continuing east, and we recommend taking it. The paved road swings left and begins a precipitous descent; to reach our destination that way would necessitate cycling extra distance and reclimbing hundreds of feet of elevation.

The gravel road is not without its own problems. The surface in many places is very loose sand, and a narrow bike wheel can easily lose purchase causing the bike to tip over. We could manage with care on our road bikes but when we reached a T-junction and could see the main paved road a hundred yards downhill to our left we followed that option. If we had it to do over again we would turn right and accept the loose surface for another couple of hundred yards but avoid another long steep climb.

The gravel road ends at Pond Road (paved, CR 27). Turn right and complete the climb. A mile or so of level cycling will bring you to the tiny settlement of Owls Head, overlooked by the cliff face of the same name. We chose the churchyard in Owls Head as our lunch stop.

From Owls Head, CR 27 takes you (south) toward Mountain View Lake and the village of the same name. About half way is the Trailside Bar and Restaurant. On entering Mountain View Village, bear left at the Y onto Mountain View Avenue, stop to enjoy the bridge over the lake outlet, then turn right onto Wolf Pond Road. We cycled onward through Mountain View (the village) to the end of Mountain View Lake (the lake) and pondered how to return to Owls Head. A gravel road, Bryant Siding Road then Indian Lake Road, encircles the lake, but remembering our trouble with the loose surface on Webber Road we opted to retrace our steps.

On the return we passed the gravel approaches to Webber Road at the start of the most exciting descent of our tour, a very long, very fast run down into the Salmon River Valley. From where the road levels out and joins Duane Road it is a little under seven miles of gently rolling terrain back to Malone. No more turns are needed, this road arrives right at our departure point, Malone Memorial Recreation Park.

Fresh riders at the start in Malone