My Kingdom for Some Boots!

By John Million


Finding the right pair of boots can become a quest that when successfully completed, leads to a long and fruitful partnership. Put on an ill-fitting pair though, and misery will surely be a part of your next journey. Let’s examine some of the factors that will assist you in finding the perfect fit.


One little known secret of the footwear industry is the fact that there is no real standardization for sizing between companies. Boot making began as more art than science, and the model molds, or lasts, that different families and now companies build their shoes around can vary quite a bit. Thus, the only sure way to find the right boot for you is to try on several different companies’ offerings. As the foot is a three dimensional entity, you will need to address length, width and volume during fitting.


Length is the most familiar of the foot measures and the first step to finding a good fit includes a calculation done with a Brannock device, that ruler type measuring tool that all good boot fitters will use. The Brannock device, which was actually invented in Syracuse, NY, will give a numeric measure as a starting point for shoe size. The next measure is width, which can also be deduced through the Brannock device and is expressed by multiples of the letters A for narrow to E for wide. Most off the rack shoes are of a D or medium width.


The final, more elusive measure is volume. This refers to the total space one’s foot takes up in a boot. Someone with a meaty or fleshy foot will have a higher instep and a higher volume foot. Someone with a flatter, bonier instep will take up less room in a boot and have a lower volume foot. Different manufacturers will be better suited to fit different types of feet. An experienced boot fitter can look at your foot and take some measurements and guide you to the three or four manufacturers that will be the best matches for your foot type.


Once measured and having selected a few boots to try on, it is important that you do so while wearing socks similar to those that you will be hiking in. You want to replicate actual hiking conditions as closely as possible. Believe it or not, the time of day will affect your foot size with a shopping trip after work resulting in a slightly larger foot measurement than in the morning. Once you have your boots on, take your time and walk around the store. Many specialty shops will have an incline where you can stomp your feet as you descend to simulate a downhill hike return. You want to have adequate room in the front of your toes to handle long downhill stretches without ramming your foot into the front of the boot and developing the very painful black toenail affliction. You may want to shoulder a pack and walk around a bit to see how the boot feels under a load. Note the side- to- side stability as you take each step. A stiffer boot will give you more support in rugged conditions.


Now that we have covered fit, let’s look at options in style and function. The primary decision is whether to go for a full leather construction or a fabric and leather combination. A full leather boot will generally be more durable as there are fewer seams to separate over time. The best and most expensive boots will be made of a single piece of full grain leather. This means the entire outer hide is used, which creates a very durable and scuff resistant surface. A split grain leather means the hide is split into multiple layers and will usually only be used in lower end models. A popular option currently is a combination of fabric, usually a durable nylon, and leather. This is done to cut down on overall boot weight, enhance breathability in warm conditions, and also to create a boot that requires less break in time to become comfortable.


The determining factor for leather versus a combination boot should be the types of terrain and loads you expect to be attempting. The greater support of full leather will be appreciated when carrying heavier loads over rougher terrain. If speed and comfort out of the box are more important than being bombproof, the combination fabric and leather boots are a great option for day hikers. Full leather boots will require some time to break in prior to taking them into the field. It is always wise to wear them around the house for awhile and take some short walks around the neighborhood to soften them up and get any hot spots toughened up. If your trip is planned for the near future, a combination boot will allow you to lessen the break in time due to their more flexible nature.


Whichever type of boot you choose will require treatment for water and dirt repellency. While the term waterproof is sheer fantasy, full leather boots can be made very water resistant due to the limited number of seams. There are a variety of products on the market that will do the job well. Try to steer clear of oil based products as they will soften the boot and compromise the stability, just as oiling a baseball glove will make it softer and more pliable. Heavy waxes will create a water repellent barrier but may seal the boot to the point where it no longer breathes.


Combination boots can also be made water repellent. It is a common practice for a layer of Gore-Tex or another water resistant breathable fabric to be incorporated in all-weather versions. Even though a Gore-Tex layer is in place, you should still treat the outside of the boot to maintain water repellency and allow the Gore-Tex layer to breathe and eliminate moisture and perspiration from inside the boot. Again, a heavy wax that eliminates breathability is not desirable. A variety of products specific to the materials used in your boots are now available and your boot fitter should be able to make a recommendation.


Don’t underestimate the value of a good pair of socks either. After all this time and effort invested in finding the perfect boots, your socks deserve no less attention. Cotton remains a poor choice as it gets soaked and stays soaked in almost any conditions. Heavy, itchy wool is also a thing of the past as a variety of soft merinos and myriad of synthetic blends can match the weight and thickness of the sock directly to the activity pursued. Be forewarned though, once you try these new super socks, it is hard to go back to anything else.


Just as each of us is a unique individual, the right boot choice will be the one that is right just for you. The manufacturer that works well for your hiking partner may be totally wrong for your foot type. It is not a process that should be rushed and you may need to visit several different specialty shops to find your perfect match. Talk to your boot fitter, ask questions, and take your time testing and choosing.


John Million is ADK's deputy executive director. The above information was adapted from an article in Adirondac.